This wine is in a weird place- caught in a strange purgatory between youthful freshness and interesting tertiary flavors. Both on the nose and palate, the fruit flavors of blackberry and mulberry are fading into the background, while the interesting earthy, leathery notes that come with age haven’t developed yet. It’s awkwardly shut down with tannins that are still surprisingly aggressive, and not super pleasant. It’s evident that the wine is well made, there’s nothing wrong with it exactly, but it seems that its best years are simultaneously both ahead of it and behind it, depending on how you like your wine.
An aside; It’s interesting how some wines manage to balance the fruit-forward flavors of youth with aged tertiary notes to form a cohesive whole in middle age, while others shut down instead. Personally, I love wines that are balanced between the complexities of some bottle age with lively youthfulness. I wonder what it is that differentiates the two. I’m sure there are lots of causes, though I’ve noticed that some grapes produce wines that tend toward a lovely middle age development (Pinot), while others usually have a shut down period (white Rhone). I don’t have enough experience with Zinfandel to know one way or another, though I’ve had Ridge Zins at a variety of ages and they are tasty at all ages (at least out to 25 yrs or so).
If you’re got this, sit on it for at least 5 more years. Now, it’s not great, at least for me.