I think past problems with the quality of Chianti Classico had to do with many producers lacking a sense of the roots of the appellation, and willingly being seduced by Merlot and barriques. The same happened with the new wave of producers in Piedmont, but they backtracked more quickly, and of course the use of non-native varieties was never sanctioned by the rules in Piedmont. In Chianti a host* of outside varieties are permitted, which is a fundamental mistake, in my view. The Principessa’s wines at Castell’in Villa are proof of what can be done with the traditional varieties and methods.
49 varieties other than Sangiovese in total, including randomly Gamay Noir, Schiava, Sagrantino, Teroldego…
There is a fun section in Neil Rosenthal’s book about his back and forth with the Principessa. Basically he loved the wine but not the negotiations and prices. Hope you’re faring better, Oliver.
I love the basic Chianti and when I visited the winery about 15 years ago, I had a very pleasant tasting and chat with her. I believe we bonded over disdain for bureaucracy.
I’m still holding on to a bottle of the 1977 and the 1985 riserva that I picked up on that trip, for what occasion I don’t know …
I had this wine just the day after the OP. My wife made Rabbit Tikka Masala and I wanted a red wine. With its base of tomatoes, bell peppers, savory herbs, and a touch of heat, I thought a Chianti might just do the trick. It was indeed perfect. I equally enjoyed the after dinner glass. I have not drank much Chianti in the last ten years, so I can’t comment on the 2015 character other than to say this wine had just the right balance of rusticity and supporting acidity. Where is the 2016 available?
This winery was brought to my attention by Gregory dal Piaz. Coincidently, I just listened to Levi Dalton’s 2015 podcast interview of Gregory regarding researching his book on Chianti Classico. It discusses the traditional Tuscan sharecropper system and the goal of quantity before quality. Then it addresses how the region had a total crisis of confidence and identity between 1985 and 2005 with many abandoning traditional winemaking methods for barrique induced oak bombs and the shift away from local grapes to Cab and Merlot. Gregory suggests that the region lost some credibility during this period. Fortunately, there has been a major shift back to tradition with a focus on quality. The interview also discusses Chianti’s different soils and sub-regions and the challenge of climate change. The podcast is really interesting and worth the time. Levi Dalton’s IDTT # 324.
I rarely chase producers, but I pestered Coralia for years before she agreed to switch. It’s an honor to represent the wines. I think the prices are very fair, given the quality of the wines.
This is really interesting to read, as I was in Chianti in 2015 with Greg, and I tagged along with Greg on a visit to Castell’in Via, met the Princess and had a lovely tasting with her.
I opened the 2010 Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva last week. It was delicious.
Thank you, Chris. I am sorry but the 2016 is already sold out, and it sounds like many retailers have sold through too. I am not sure I got any for myself, for that matter.
Just realized it might have seemed that I thought these wines were overpriced. To the contrary, especially the basic Chianti. Just paraphrasing NR’s book.
These wines punch way above their weight! One of the few wines I go deep on every vintage as a house drinker - but they have the bones for longer aging if you can keep your hands off…