2012 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cerretta- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba (1/8/2015)
BIG structure here….a lighter darkness than most Barbera…almost like a darker Barolo……laser beam focus of wild berries, cherry, raspberry puree, sweet prunes……solid and intense young structure…dry spicy tannins, crushed rocks, smoke, graphite, citrus acidity……but also coats the palate with a smoothness…rose flowers, tar, licorice, dried cherry. Really tasty sipper here….complexing Barbera…that should age even. Quality! (93 pts.)
I’ve aged several over the years and they hold up but lose much of the fruit that makes them so appealing young. I have yet to have one I liked better with 5-10 years of age than I did young.
I am pretty sure they use only large oak. But I am always worried about oak creeping into Barbera. A little is fine, but I was also thinking that maybe they had to buy new barrels for the extra amount of wine. Probably just me being stupid. Roberto seems to know a thing or two about wine. Not sure if I want to taste it solo or with other Barberas.
I take back what I said. Shortly after this posting, I opened the 2005 Cascina Francia Barbera and it was massively pleasurable. Not terribly complex – still fairly primary and grapy – but softer and just chuggable that it was young. This may be one of those cases where the warmer, softer vintages favor barbera over nebbiolo. I’ve got a 2006 on deck at home to try now.
We were fortunate enough to get a tour in August and tried some of the Barbera out of the huge wooden casks. I don’t recall seeing any smaller barrels anywhere. Not that they don’t have them somewhere but they gave us a pretty thorough tour. One of the most amazing wineries I’ve ever seen. Immaculate and with tons of space. We were told that when the grapes from the recent purchase next to Cascina Francia comes on line they will use up much of the existing winery but had no plans for purchases of more vines or new space.