TN: 2012 EMH Black Cat Classic

WINE TALK
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Opened up the 2012 EMH Black Cat tonight, poured glass #1 about 30 minutes ago after letting it breathe in bottle for a good 30-45. What a fantastic Cab, definitely skews more “old school Napa” and it’s just so pure and focused…pretty much knew it was going to be a treat soon as I poured it and noticed the hue, which was dark as one would expect from Cab but not near-opaque as we so often see nowadays. And what a fantastic Cab nose, just filled with bright fruits, hints of tobacco and a great herbaceous note. Super long close too, with tannins slightly astringent yet super polished. Would love to have a nice strip or filet to pair with it! Alas, leftover homemade lasagne will have to suffice. Imo, this is just beginning to drink beautifully and should only improve over the next few years and continue drinking well for 10-15+.

Such a lovely expression of Cab and one that I wish was more prevalent - well done, Merrill!

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Thanks, Alex.

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Opened the 2004 Black Cat for my Birthday dinner tonight, paired with short ribs, mashed potatoes, and roasted brussel’s sprouts - absolutely heavenly! I loved this - great Cab fruit, balanced, medium-bodied, completely harmonious. Note forthcoming…

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So glad the 2004 worked out for you…that pairing is perfect. I may have a couple of 2004 magnums in my Library that could be included in my" January Thaw" promotion at the end of the month. 2012 750s will definitely be part of the celebration.

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Thanks Merrill for producing this wonderful wine - one of the very best wines that I have ever had the pleasure of drinking. Here’s the full note:

2004 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat - USA, California, Napa Valley (1/9/2020)
14.5% abv. Recent auction purchase.
My first taste of an EMH Cabernet. I was a little concerned about this after reading SCORREA’s latest note about this having a porty aftertaste. Also concerned due to this being from WineBid. Additionally, I’ve had a few bottles recently of Whitehall Lane Leonardini vineyard Cabernet (2001 and 2002 - same winemaker as this EMH) that I found to be overripe for my palate. So, I was not entirely optimistic, but hopeful.
No worries! This was absolutely beautiful. Cork came out nicely with an Ah-So and was barely stained 1/4" up.

Pop n’ pour. Drank a glass prior to dinner, then enjoyed with a hearty birthday meal of Short Ribs, mashed potatoes, and roasted Brussels Sprouts (sharing the bottle with my lovely wife).

Aromatically, this was not very expansive, but was very pleasant and satisfying with classic Napa Cabernet character.

On the palate, this was a perfect match for my middle-of-the-road palate. Definitely not made in the modern high end Napa Cab mold of super ripe, high-extraction fruit. More medium-bodied (in a Napa Cab context), with perfect ripeness and extraction that falls into the zone where there’s only a hint of that Cab herbal character and no “liqueur-ed” notes. Very nicely balanced, with ample fresh acidity, depth, and concentration. Gorgeous flavor profile, with cassis, blackberry, and perhaps some plum. Early notes seem to indicate prominent oak, but I didn’t find any overt oakiness at all (and I’m a huge critic of over-oaked wines). Slightly fleshy but silky mouthfeel. Didn’t have tremendous length exactly, but was persistent for 20-30 seconds or so. A glorious pairing with the meal.

I think this is at the point in its life where all of the elements are integrated and in harmony but still has fruit that does not yet exhibit any tertiary character. A perfect spot for my palate. I’d guess that well-stored bottles will remain at this point for a few more years at least and will continue to drink well for a number of years beyond that. No hurry on this at all.

I would add that this is not what I’d call a “wow” Cabernet, as it does not have a slick veneer of oak and over-the-top concentration, so I wouldn’t expect this to do well in a large tasting of high-end Napa Cabernet. Even compared to a 2002 Montelena Estate Cabernet that I tried last year, this was more restrained with less oak presence (and more enjoyable to me). (96 pts.)

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Wow - that’s quite a note!

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Who’s the winemaker? I have no experience with EMH but I feel like Merrill has regularly touted being a 1-person operation and doing everything herself.

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Possible uh-oh coming up.

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I’ve been drinking EMH since '05. Whoever the winemaker is, they’re doing a pretty good job. [cheers.gif]

I wonder how many no-name, unknown winemakers are making wine?

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I think Merrill took over winemaking at some point after 2004.

I have recently obtained a bunch of 2013 SS; going to probably pop one a year to see how they evolve. We had one at Thanksgiving that was great.

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No uh-oh. I will explain very clearly how my operation is run.

I own 100% of the vineyard. I own 100% of EMH Vineyards, Inc. That means I set the direction for everything that happens in the vineyard and at the winery where I custom crush, Judd’s Hill Winery. I have owned both since late 1999, but did not sell the wine until I got my license in 2003 and formalized EMH as a Corporation within California.

I hire in knowledgeable help to prune when I am ready to prune. I set the ground rules for how they are to prune (how many spurs per vine, any special ways to treat certain vines, etc.). I farm organically, so I hire in able bodies to dig weeds between the vines and to put down organic fish emulsion as fertilizer, and professionals to spray to guard against mildew. They also will do suckering during the growing season.

If any fruit is to be dropped, I do it personally. I like to make my own choices for what is going in the bottle, as I am the one who sells it.

When it is time to harvest, I MAKE THE CALL. Period. I oversee the vineyard management company to ensure the harvest goes the way I want it. I am there working alongside the people I have worked with for years, directing the sorting or quality control, as I like to call it.

I sort again at the winery as the fruit gets “crushed” and sent into the fermentation tank. At that point I step away and allow the head winemaker for Judd’s Hill to see the wine through fermentation. I come in to check for any issues, and I do like to taste during the process.

I select and purchase my own barrels. Again, I know where I want to go.

I decide which wines become the Special Selection, or a single barrel bottling, or the Classic Black Cat.

I store my wines in a bonded warehouse, which is mandated by law.

I sell the wine.

Clear enough?

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Thanks for the clarification Merrill.

Since i have no idea, is that the typical process and level of involvement for a winemaker when they are hired by a Vineyard owner? Assuming it varies but curious what constitutes ‘winemaker’ for these types of scenarios. Might spark a larger convo but I have no clue how it works.

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No, I believe our arrangement is rather unique. The Judd’s Hill winemaker refers to me as the winemaker for EMH. When I thank him for another great vintage, he always comments: “You do all the work - I just try not to screw it up.” We are both (and the associate winemakers) happy with the arrangement. And out there in the world of winemaking, there are as many models as there are recipes for spaghetti sauce. My business card and the back of my bottle reads, “MERRILL LINDQUIST GROWER/OWNER”

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Gotcha - That makes sense. Thanks for the details!

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For the 2004 vintage of EMH Black Cat, Art Finklestein was the Winemaker (per the printing on the bottle). He was/is(?) the winemaker for Whitehall Lane. Not sure when the winemaker changed to the current arrangement. Merrill?

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Art Finkelstein founded Whitehall Lane, but sold it before opening Judd’s Hill. Judd’s Hill was in full operation when I started to crush there in 2000. I thought it was appropriate to list him as winemaker in the early years. I know I changed over to the “grower/owner” by the 2009 vintage, and I am not certain when Art died.

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Thanks for the clarification, Merrill. Art Finklestein passed away in 2010 (according to some googled articles). Those Whitehall Lane wines that I referenced were made by Dean Sylvester, not Art. Apologies for the misinformation.

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BTW Merrill, I love the bottle design! I am keeping the empty bottle for decoration purposes.

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In preparation for an enjoyable weekend, and to get a check point before “January Thaw” sale, we decided it’s time to revisit some good EMH wines. Given the lively discussion here, it was pretty clear which vintage would be pulled for the discussion. Hence,

  • 2012 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat (1/24/2020)
    You know that moment when you open a bottle and from the other side of the living room you are being asked “What’s that wonderful smell?”

So, EMH '12. Opened on Friday to be served along a small plate of appetizers, salad and some lightly grill sausage in olive oil. Great nose from PnP. Wonderful taste, medium plus finish on the length. I recalled that the big ‘nose’ has been an identifying signature also when we opened it few years ago (2015, twice by more than one guest). It indeed live to our expectations that the finish would become longer. The earthy notes (especially some peppers and light wood) came to the front about 60 minutes into the decanter. The finish got longer. Well balanced fruit (dark berries, cherry) on the nose and palate. Wonderful finish for the week. So, can it be your house wine? It can certainly be ours. Very enjoyable. Rewarding, and works very well with the olive-cheese platter. The only downsize? It was not a magnum :slight_smile:

93+, drinks well above its price range. (93+ pts.)

All I can say is… well done! I wish I could drink that every weekend. Next time I’d open the '12 EMH special. [wow.gif]
Time to get the CC ready [cheers.gif]

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Thank you, Dr. Lenchner. My co-winemaker at Judd’s Hill had texted me yesterday before I saw this note and asked which of the “older” vintages of mine he should take to some tasting he was involved with. I said 2009. He did not have one. I said then 2012 or 2014. I need to find out which he took and what the reaction was. It seems like my “even” vintages are a bit bolder than the “odd” vintages. Again, I will say the 2009 - particularly the 2009 Special Selection - is the best wine I have made. To my taste. That and the 2001.