TN: 2010 Bedrock Wine Co. Zinfandel Old Vine

[Z_Scheiner]

@Larry P

@T. Melloni

The problem is cost - something about Zinfandel topping the $40 mark; it is tough threshold to cross.
$22.50 sounds better.

This kind of perception is a real problem for Zin, especially if you like the wine produced from old vines. These century-old vineyards often produce less than 1-2 tons per acre on land that could be replanted to a “luxury” variety like Pinot or Cab, young vines producing 6-10 tons/acre fetching north of $40 per bottle. Because of this, most of the great old vineyards are long gone.

This raises the question, do you like Zin, or do you only like Zin for $22.50? There’s plenty of plonk out there that might lower the perception of the variety, but considering the best-of-the-best can be had for between $30-$45, I’d still consider old-vine, single vineyard Zin, one of the great bargains in fine wine.

Great post Larry. And thanks for your insight Morgan.

[Bob_Wood]

@Larry P

@T. Melloni

The problem is cost - something about Zinfandel topping the $40 mark; it is tough threshold to cross.
$22.50 sounds better.

This kind of perception is a real problem for Zin, especially if you like the wine produced from old vines. These century-old vineyards often produce less than 1-2 tons per acre on land that could be replanted to a “luxury” variety like Pinot or Cab, young vines producing 6-10 tons/acre fetching north of $40 per bottle. Because of this, most of the great old vineyards are long gone.

This raises the question, do you like Zin, or do you only like Zin for $22.50? There’s plenty of plonk out there that might lower the perception of the variety, but considering the best-of-the-best can be had for between $30-$45, I’d still consider old-vine, single vineyard Zin, one of the great bargains in fine wine.

And, as I’ve said many times here (and on the “old” board during those rare times that His Squirrelship allowed me to actually post) thanks are due to Bob Trinchero who - unwittlingly - saved hundreds if not thousands of acres of old-vine zinfandel from being either plowed under and replanted or grafted over to something more “appealing”, like merlot or chardonnay.

Thanks, Bob. I still remember vividly the night when you and I polished off the dregs of the moscato that were left over after a tasting that included your Deaver Ranch zin and Mike Grgich’s wines - along with Mike himself.

[T_Melloni]

I felt like it was “beat up on T.” day for suggesting that I’d rather pay $22.50 than $40.

There are many good Zinfandels to be found for under $40. That makes it a bit difficult to cross that $40 threshold.
I appreciate the complexity found in a well crafted Zinfandel from old vines and begrudge no winemaker or vineyard owner their desire to earn a decent profit.
There are many tasty Zins that come in at the $30 mark and lower. Yes, Morgan’s Bedrock wines and Mike Officer’s Carlisle wines are some of them. There are others - coming from Mendocino or even - gasp - the Sierra Foothills. I think it is neither disrespectful nor dismissive of those promoting/cultivating/farming/and making wine from old vine vineyards when I suggest that I’d rather pay less than more.
In my view, it is the rare Zin that improves beyond 6 years of age. Yes, they exist; I think it rare. That is another impediment to higher prices.
Of course, let’s not take for granted image - which, is strongly coupled with demand - and factor that into the price - ultimately leading to what I see as a personal benefit as a consumer. Finding complex and interesting wines that taste good and below the $30 mark can be found with Zinfandel.
Personally, I’d rather not see the average price for Old Vine Zin go over $40.

I’d rather pay $22.50 than $40 for Cabernet too.

[Larry_P]

@T. Melloni

I felt like it was “beat up on T.” day for suggesting that I’d rather pay $22.50 than $40.

T. - I did not mean my post to be an attack on you, just took an opportunity to raise the issue of the price pressure that exists on old vineyards, and how Zin’s perception as a bargain variety is working against itself.

I’d also rather pay $22.50 than $40 for a great SVD old-vine Zin. But I’d also rather pay $40 for a great SVD old-vine zin than $40 for yet another young-vine RRV Pinot. Framing the argument in those terms is something worth thinking about, because that’s what’s really at stake.

[Larry_P]

just to get back on topic…

• 2010 Bedrock Wine Co. Zinfandel Old Vine - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (12/9/2011)
  Consumed over 2 nights. No detailed notes taken but full-bodied, very dense cherry/raspberry palate without being cloying or sweet. Some orange oil on the mid-palate transition to plums and dark chocolate. Spicy finish. This is just a baby but it’s open for business and should give a lot of enjoyment over the next 3-5 years.

Posted from CellarTracker

[Andrew_Hall]

I am drinking this now. Blind, I would peg it as Norton. And I think that is totally awesome.


A.

[Chris_Seiber]

Norton? Do you mean the grape? Or the producer in Argentina?

[Andrew_Hall]

@Chris Seiber

Norton? Do you mean the grape? Or the producer in Argentina?

Norton, the Grape. The Bedrock is wildly primitive, almost feral. I do mean that in temperament (a good way), not a flawed wine way.

A.

[Bob_Wood]

@Chris Seiber

Norton? Do you mean the grape? Or the producer in Argentina?

The sewer worker?

[Tom_Lee]

@Morgan Twain-Peterson

@Andrew Demaree

I avoid heavy, “jammy” zin like the plague at this point. For me, Scherrer and Ridge are my big go-to producers in a more moderate style. I’ll now add Bedrock to the list. I’ve only had a glass, but based on the experience would say Joseph Swan might belong there, too. Haven’t had a Nalle, so I can’t comment on them. I have the new zin from Dehlinger and am hoping that’s in the same style…we’ll see!

You might have more suggestions for me than vice versa, Stu. Anyone else you’d add?

First off, it is wonderfully gratifying that people are responding to the 10 Sonoma Valley Old-Vine so well. It, along with the Monte Rosso, might be the wine that I am most proud of from the tough 2010 vintage. We got hit by a serious blast of heat on the 23rd and 24th of August that completely eradicated some vineyard’s crops and seriously reduced others and it made assembling the wine difficult. In the end I made the painful decision to completely declassify Stellwagen Vineyard into the wine as it gave nice center to the perfume and spice elements from Pagani, Monte Rosso, Bedrock Mourvedre, Scatena, and the younger vines from Los Chamizal Vineyard. I nearly had a heart attack at bottling as the 600 cases is, by far, the largest production wine I have ever made, and seeing the small city of pallets was thrombotically disconcerting. I am happy with the wine though-- what I love most about Sonoma Valley is that the wines are more claret-like by nature. They are not necessarily shy on tannin and spice and, if not picked too late (a plague in the realm of modern Zin making in my opinion), can lend themselves to prettiness and ageworthiness-- two descriptors not assigned to Zinfandel enough these days.

But enough about that- I mainly wanted to toss out a few other names of people whose Zinfandels I love.

First. Will Bucklin, at Bucklin Winery, does not get nearly enough love. Not only does he farm and operate Old Hill Ranch (and yes I am filially biased, but I think it is the greatest Zinfandel vineyard in the world), he has, via his impeccable organic farming and thoughtfulness when it comes to all plant matter, made the quality at Old Hill greater than it has ever been. He reaps the reward of his own excellent with his label “Bucklin.” The Bambino, a Zinfandel based field-blend, is a steal at $20. The 55 cases or so he makes in certain years of the 120+ year old Grenache from Old Hill is out of this world. The $34 Old Hill Ranch Old-Vines is structured, ageworthy, stuff and is a lovely counterpoint to the Ravenswood wines from the ranch (Bucklin and Ravenswood alternate rows when picking). The current 2008 is gorgeous and forthcoming 2009 might be even better. Yes, I am happy to count Will as a friend, but he is one of those friends where you go “why are these not wines immediately sold out!?” everytime you taste them. Plus, he is just a lovely human being which helps.

Second. I think the appellation Dry Creek Zinfandels from Dashe and Quivira are about as good as it gets for the money (unless you are on Carlisle’s list and cannot get the Sonoma County Zinfandel). They have lovely fruit, spice, are thoughtfully oaked, and sum up the character of the appellation. Also, though they are a step up in volume and the label needs some serious work, the Pezzi King Dry Creek Old-Vine is worth seeking out.

Third. Eric Sussman at Radio Coteau is back at Von Weidlich Vineyard. The 2007 he made, along with the 2007 Carlisle Montafi Ranch, are the two greatest Zinfandels I have tasted in the last ten years. The vineyard is just outside of Occidental (aka, way the f*ck out on the coast), planted in 1937, and is an absolute jewel if you like perfumed, high-toned, low-pH, Zinfandel (it was the 1974 from this vineyard labeled as Ridge Occidental that was a legend in its time).

Fourth. Bump Wines is a new label from Geordie Carr. Though his SB and Syrah are nice, the jewel- both historically and qualitatively-- is his HB Family Zinfandel. The vineyard has the unique distinction of being the only old-vine, mixed-black, Zinfandel vineyard still existing on what was previously the ground of Harazthy’s Buena Vista-- one of the great vine importers and one of the first to popularize Zinfandel in the state. It also is a cool region for Zin (actually less than 1/2 mile from my Compagni Portis Mixed White Vineyard) and as such the wine is remarkably high-tone and pretty. For those of you who like Ridge Wines (and thus do not mind the 20% American oak as much as I do) this is a really great wine to pick up. At $24 a bottle this is well worth it.

There are several others (some like Scherrer, Nalle, and Ridge have already been mentioned), but these are the ones that jump to mind.

Can anyone elaborate on the Radio Coteau Von Weidlich Vineyard Zinfandel. Specifically, I am wondering with what vintage did Radio Coteau begin making this wine again? 2011?

Tom

[David_M]

@Andrew Demaree

I avoid heavy, “jammy” zin like the plague at this point. For me, Scherrer and Ridge are my big go-to producers in a more moderate style. I’ll now add Bedrock to the list. I’ve so I can’t comment on them. I have the new zin from Dehlinger and am hoping that’s in the same style…we’ll see!

You might have more suggestions for me than vice versa, Stu. Anyone else you’d add?

I would hold off on the Dehlinger or pop the bottle and drink it the next day. i opened one last night with a friend and the tannins were s drying it upset my stomach and my stomach is accustomed to a fair amount of wine. I had the rest of the bottle tonight and it had settled down and drank much better. If opening this wine soon give to air and eat with food, this is not a cocktail wine. Its very good enjoy.

[Morgan_Twain-Peterson]

@Tom Lee

@Morgan Twain-Peterson

@Andrew Demaree

I avoid heavy, “jammy” zin like the plague at this point. For me, Scherrer and Ridge are my big go-to producers in a more moderate style. I’ll now add Bedrock to the list. I’ve only had a glass, but based on the experience would say Joseph Swan might belong there, too. Haven’t had a Nalle, so I can’t comment on them. I have the new zin from Dehlinger and am hoping that’s in the same style…we’ll see!

You might have more suggestions for me than vice versa, Stu. Anyone else you’d add?

First off, it is wonderfully gratifying that people are responding to the 10 Sonoma Valley Old-Vine so well. It, along with the Monte Rosso, might be the wine that I am most proud of from the tough 2010 vintage. We got hit by a serious blast of heat on the 23rd and 24th of August that completely eradicated some vineyard’s crops and seriously reduced others and it made assembling the wine difficult. In the end I made the painful decision to completely declassify Stellwagen Vineyard into the wine as it gave nice center to the perfume and spice elements from Pagani, Monte Rosso, Bedrock Mourvedre, Scatena, and the younger vines from Los Chamizal Vineyard. I nearly had a heart attack at bottling as the 600 cases is, by far, the largest production wine I have ever made, and seeing the small city of pallets was thrombotically disconcerting. I am happy with the wine though-- what I love most about Sonoma Valley is that the wines are more claret-like by nature. They are not necessarily shy on tannin and spice and, if not picked too late (a plague in the realm of modern Zin making in my opinion), can lend themselves to prettiness and ageworthiness-- two descriptors not assigned to Zinfandel enough these days.

But enough about that- I mainly wanted to toss out a few other names of people whose Zinfandels I love.

First. Will Bucklin, at Bucklin Winery, does not get nearly enough love. Not only does he farm and operate Old Hill Ranch (and yes I am filially biased, but I think it is the greatest Zinfandel vineyard in the world), he has, via his impeccable organic farming and thoughtfulness when it comes to all plant matter, made the quality at Old Hill greater than it has ever been. He reaps the reward of his own excellent with his label “Bucklin.” The Bambino, a Zinfandel based field-blend, is a steal at $20. The 55 cases or so he makes in certain years of the 120+ year old Grenache from Old Hill is out of this world. The $34 Old Hill Ranch Old-Vines is structured, ageworthy, stuff and is a lovely counterpoint to the Ravenswood wines from the ranch (Bucklin and Ravenswood alternate rows when picking). The current 2008 is gorgeous and forthcoming 2009 might be even better. Yes, I am happy to count Will as a friend, but he is one of those friends where you go “why are these not wines immediately sold out!?” everytime you taste them. Plus, he is just a lovely human being which helps.

Second. I think the appellation Dry Creek Zinfandels from Dashe and Quivira are about as good as it gets for the money (unless you are on Carlisle’s list and cannot get the Sonoma County Zinfandel). They have lovely fruit, spice, are thoughtfully oaked, and sum up the character of the appellation. Also, though they are a step up in volume and the label needs some serious work, the Pezzi King Dry Creek Old-Vine is worth seeking out.

Third. Eric Sussman at Radio Coteau is back at Von Weidlich Vineyard. The 2007 he made, along with the 2007 Carlisle Montafi Ranch, are the two greatest Zinfandels I have tasted in the last ten years. The vineyard is just outside of Occidental (aka, way the f*ck out on the coast), planted in 1937, and is an absolute jewel if you like perfumed, high-toned, low-pH, Zinfandel (it was the 1974 from this vineyard labeled as Ridge Occidental that was a legend in its time).

Fourth. Bump Wines is a new label from Geordie Carr. Though his SB and Syrah are nice, the jewel- both historically and qualitatively-- is his HB Family Zinfandel. The vineyard has the unique distinction of being the only old-vine, mixed-black, Zinfandel vineyard still existing on what was previously the ground of Harazthy’s Buena Vista-- one of the great vine importers and one of the first to popularize Zinfandel in the state. It also is a cool region for Zin (actually less than 1/2 mile from my Compagni Portis Mixed White Vineyard) and as such the wine is remarkably high-tone and pretty. For those of you who like Ridge Wines (and thus do not mind the 20% American oak as much as I do) this is a really great wine to pick up. At $24 a bottle this is well worth it.

There are several others (some like Scherrer, Nalle, and Ridge have already been mentioned), but these are the ones that jump to mind.

Can anyone elaborate on the Radio Coteau Von Weidlich Vineyard Zinfandel. Specifically, I am wondering with what vintage did Radio Coteau begin making this wine again? 2011?

Tom

I believe that 2007 (which along with the Carlisle Montafi might be the bet Zin I have had in the last five years) was the last vintage before resuming in 2011.