2009 Weingut Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen (2/1/2017)
This wine is an aromatic powerhouse. The nose is mesmerizing, captivating and finally invigorating. The fruit salad of aromas keeps pulling me back in again and again. Then I take a sip, and there is no way for it to live up to how the wine smells. There is a nice interplay of fruit and mineral, but it does not soar. I go back to smell it again, and I am astonished. Taste again, and I am let down. It’s a bizarre dichotomy. I ended up with a few sips sitting in my glass because I loved smelling it, but was not thrilled to drink it. I have had wines before where I was more than satisfied to just smell them, but the taste came close. Weird!
Posted from CellarTracker
Thanks for posting - always a pleasure to read.
2009 and Kirchspiel don’t rhyme, so no wonder.
Open the 2015 Kirchspiel (despite the price difference) and things will align, also the stars. Kirchspiel is the most available of the GG’s as it’s the sleekest, but for some that can be a good thing.
Only 2004 Kirchspiel is at the same level, but that wine was my best dry white last year (served from a large format böttle): And it was a good year…
I usually find that kind of nose/palate disconnect in wines that need more time. I wouldn’t expect that here, but who knows?
Interesting note. We had one last April that was the exact opposite - expressing very little on the nose, but the palate was a lot deeper and more profound than I usually expect from Kirchspiel. We just couldn’t coax out the nose. The bottle had traveled first to LA and then to Japan, though, so I hesitated to judge too much, being a firm believer in the impact of long plane trips on wine.
I had a bottle of the '09 Kirchspiel in Burgundy on a recent trip and it was showing quite similarly- aromatically attractive, but completely closed down and dumb on the palate. A friend from Germany arrived to try it on day two and mentioned that other 2009 Keller GGs that he had tasted are in a similar stage right now- hermetically sealed and in need of further bottle age before opening. It held up very well over several days open in the fridge, but never budged on the palate. Five more years of hibernation needed?
Maybe. It was slightly better on night 2, but still quite heavy/flat on the palate.