TN: 2009 Francois Chidaine Clos Habert (Montlouis sur Loire)

Don’t recall seeing much on the 09, so I thought I’d post a quick note.

This needs a minimum of 60 minutes of air to open. The nose is incredibly floral, with honeysuckle or the like predominating. There is some peachy fruit, and in the background a bit of burnt sugar. On the palate, peach and orange melon with some secondary citrus; a nice stoniness, as well. The bitter note that most Chenin carries is very very tame here and relegated to the background. The wine is fairly viscous on entry with noticeable sweetness; the finish, however, imparts a light, clean rainwater sensation–the textural contrast is really impressive. Enough acidity to prevent the wine from being cloying. Personally, I’d appreciate a little more cut, but I felt that way about 08 when I tasted it, as well. In any event, the 09 is a lovely, lovely wine, and I’ll be sending some down to the cellar.

Elliot

Elliot, I just opened an 09 Chidaine Clos du Breiul. Tasting it right now. It’s going to hopefully pair well with some lettuce wraps with chicken. As for the cut you are mentioning, the 2010s should be more in that vein. The 2010 Breiul, as good as the 2009 tastes, is even better, with more cut too. The 2009s seem a little bit softer, perhaps more tropical and less verve.

Had the 09 about a month ago and agree it lacked a little cut when compared to the 08. Honey suckle, stone fruit, nice minerality and great mouth feel; nice solid bottle of wine. Can’t wait for the '10s to hit the shelves. I’ll be a buyer for sure.

Haven’t had the Breuil from 09 or 10, but a local store carries the 08, which I’m happy to keep buying.

The only 09/10 comparison I’ve been able to do of a Loire white was a Boulay sancerre. Not particularly informative vis-à-vis something like Montlouis, but interesting nonetheless. The 10 was excellent, with tons of cut and minerality behind a lot of lemony fruit. The 09 also had great minerality and acidity, but an almost viscous texture and a lemon creamsicle quality to the fruit. I prefer the 10, but the 09 was kind of impressive, despite being a bit odd for sancerre.

Elliot