2008 Phelps Creek Vineyards Chardonnay Celilo Vineyard- USA, Oregon, Columbia Gorge (2/9/2011)
Pop and pour- a bit of a mistake as this gets much better with air. Yellow gold. Spicy nose with some lemon verbena and a hint of tropical fruit. Smells like it is definitely a new world oaky thing, but the palate is quite pleasant. Lemon curd, river rock, and a hint of sage. The greener elements mix with some lovely austere minerality on the lengthy finish.
This saw 33% new French and full malo, so it is definitely a new world style, but there is enough acidic structure and minerality to keep it from becoming flabby or one dimensional. Under 200 cases produced, and the Columbia Gorge location keeps this producer well under the radar, but a worthwhile one for those who enjoy Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. (90 pts.)
Numbers are from the last time I visited them- what I scribbled in my book. Definitely might be too strong, but the nose on this is solidly on the spicy/ tropical side of things and smacks of new world Chardonnay to me. Maybe a Macon-type.
Okay, I’m thoroughly confused. First you say it’s a new world style because it saw new oak and went through malo, but that’s an old world winemaking method that’s been getting used on the wrong fruit in the new world for years - resulting in that gloppy, pineapple/mango/papaya crap that every wine geek I know complains about. Then you say it smacks of new world chardonnay because of the tropical fruit and go on to say it’s a Macon-type, and the last I looked Macon was in France.
Fair points Bob. I just re-read the note back, aloud. I think what I will edit the
CT note to say is the data on new French/ malo, and presents itself in a new world style on the nose… Etc.
My point comparing it to a Macon was to say that would be the only Burgundy appelation which I could compare this to as it definitely presents fruit first, and tastes much more new world in style, but has enough structure and minerality to keep it from being flabby or one dimensional.
Appreciate the comments and challenging me to clarify.
I really like the white wines here - both the oaked and the unoaked Chardonnays. I can’t remember if it was this exact wine, but I thought the Phelps Creek I tasted was the class of the Oregon Chards I got to try when I was in Willamette Valley last summer. Would love to visit the winery - I hear the gorge is…gorgeous…