2007 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (10/1/2013)
Followed over the course of 2 nights, the 2007 Rio Sordo is typical of the vintage for the Produttori, as it is substantially more open and lush than most versions I have tasted. Dark red fruit, flowers, a bit of meat and fairly ripe tannins in this one. It’s not as large scaled as the '07 Rabaja or Montestefano that I have had in recent months, but it has more than enough stuffing for the medium term cellaring that it will need to soften just a little bit. I’ve said this before, but it’s good to have a vintage of these Riservas that can be drunk in the next 5-10 years (and even now with some pleasure) rather than the long wait for the more classic, structured vintages. Excellent wine with some upside over the next decade.
Thanks for the note. I only tried the 2007 “normale” barbaresco, and that too was wonderfully open for business although certainly very ripe in character. I liked it a lot for what it is, but wouldnt age it for long. I would expect the 08 to be less ripe, more structured, and more tight at present.
How is the 2008 compared to the 07? I drank three of the 07 normale and found them to be very accessible. I have a 6 pack left which should be great for drinking over the next few years. And I have 3 of the Montefico for the longer term.
I went a bit longer on 08. The only bottle I have had is the Pora, which is supposed to be one of the more open cru. And I was hoping it would offer up some medium term drinking options while the other 08 cru’s aged. But the 08 Pora was shut right down. Double decanted. Super inward over two days. I’m curious if that experience is typical of what others have noted with the 2008 vintage and PdB.
I found a vintage report on the PdB website. Nice to have this actually. It offers great insight to past and future releases. As for the 07 vrs 08 vintages. The 07 is riper and richer. 08 is less ripe, intense, powerful (not as accessible early). That matches my limited experience. I wish I had more 2007 cru’s.
And there is some interesting variability coming up in the future releases. 09, 10, 11, 12. All are good but they are all different. Some are riper, others not, making for some flexibility in medium and long term drinking peaks.
I tasted 2007 and 2008 Rio Sordo, Muncagota, and Ovello side by side at a tasting in August.
In general, the 2008s are cooler, tighter, and, for my palate, more elegant wines. The 2008 Rio Sordo shut down in the glass pretty quickly.
The 2007s are more open, lightly perfumed and fruity wines by comparison. They are more round and warmer than the 2008s but by no means hot. The fruit has a sweeter, slightly candied character. I’ve tasted some 2007 riservas in the past and they don’t seem to be shutting down.
My personal preference is for the 2008s but the 2007s are objectively great wines as well. The both vintages of Ovello in particular were outstanding.
Had the 07 Ovello out of magnum at a party last weekend, and it was quite wonderful, putting a number of pretty good Burgundies to shame. Personally, I think the idea of closed, unyielding Produttori’s is a bit misleading. We all locally got a deal on 2005’s a while ago, and I’ve been drinking them with pleasure for the past year (including Rabaja, Paje, montefico, mocagatta (still called that back then), Ovello). In a recent RAbaja vertical, all of the wines from this decade (2001, 2004, 2005, 2007, 2008) were really quite enjoyable, nothing closed or austere. 2008 Torre is just fine as well right now. this is not to say that the wines won’t be beter at a later point, but you areen’t going to hurt yourself badly by trying one. Can’t comment on 2006 Torre, as I haven’t had one in a while.
One thing to add about early drinking of the Produttori’s. while they may be accessible, I find that it does take a few years for the more typical nebbiolo nose to appear (tar, cherries, rose). for me it seems to appear only a few years after release (not required for the wine to be showing other secondary characteristics, which seem to take much longer). the 05’s have it. The 07 and 08’s aren’t showing it a lot yet.
The word from Aldo (second hand) was that it was the best Lange nebbiolo ever. I’ve had 2-3 bottles. It’s good, but I’d much rather spend up for the Torre, as you are getting real barbaresco for $in the 30’s.