I’ve had some of Domaine Tracot Jean Paul Dubost '06s but not '07s. For whatever it may be worth, here are my most recent notes on their '06 Moulin à Vent and Fleurie:
2006 Jean Paul Dubost Fleurie - one of the top crus of Beaujolais, known for producing, as the name indicates, floral wines. I first tried this during Jérôme Philippon’s recent tasting of 100 French Wines and promptly bought some, among others. My very brief notes from that tasting state:
“Lighter in body, more floral and feminine, brighter berries and cherry (compared to the '06 JP Dubost Moulin á Vent). I bought these with my wife in mind and to try out on my friends to show them what a good Beaujolais is like.”
Like the '06 JP Dubost Moulin à Vent, this Fleurie was definitely unlike the usually light and carefree (and more typical, some say) Beaujolais I’ve tried - richer, fuller (over medium-bodied), more concentrated, generous (but not loud) with materially more density and heft. True to its name, the pure, freshly young aromas are redolent with violets, some rose and dark cherries.
In the mouth, there is definite ripeness to the black cherry, blackcurrant, mild spice, violets and a bit of wood. The bold tannins and wood are, as to be expected, not yet fully resolved, but it’s nothing a couple of years more ageing wouldn’t fix. Impressive balance and length. Marc and my wife both noted this wine’s distinctive florality. Very nice indeed. (6th June 2009)
2006 Jean Paul Dubost Moulin à Vent Cru Beaujolais - My bottle, purchased from Sommelier Selection, from, arguably, the deepest and most age-worthy of the 10 Cru Beaujolais above discussed. I first tried this at Jerome Philippon’s Beaujolais Not Noveau Dinner last November 2008. My notes then were as follows:
…this was clearly my personal favorite red of the night - as well as the best match with the cassoulet. I remember telling Jérome that I found its character very different from the two previous reds - i.e., comparatively feminine to the Vieilles Vignes and Croix des Rameaux, and that it was very graceful and light-footed, its flavors dancing and gliding on the palate. There is a more notable presence of red fruit - dark cherry, bit of raspberry - to the spiced blackberry/blackcurrant base and there is a fresher over-all feel to the fruit.
The wine is no pansy though. It has superior focus, definitive/sturdy structure and a confident drive/push on the palate without at all being over-bearing or aggressive. On the contrary, it is very suave, poised and polished. Nice silky texture on the palate from attack to finish and a subtle but definite dark minerality exquisitely and finely infused in its fruit.
6 months later, I re-tasted this at Sommelier Selection’s Tasting of 100 Wines from France on the 15th May 2009. My brief notes then stated:
2006 Domaine Tracot Jean Paul Dubost Moulin á Vent - Rich, deeply veined fruit, good potential, poise and harmony, light on its feet, long and graceful finish of violets.
The bottle at the subject Tosca dinner had been opened for around 1-½ hours in the bottle and another 25-30 minutes in glass before we got to it with the cheese course. It presented lightly stewed, slightly soft and raisined cranberry, ripe cherry and raspberry aromas with notes of violets and dark minerals. Mirrored in the mouth with a touch of leather on an above-medium body. Well structured, to me it possessed more depth and a darker, more serious character than the previous more floral and light-hearted “mystery” Beaujolais. Gerhard and Bernd readily agreed.
It went very well with the cheeses. I opined that its soft, slightly raisined fruity notes served like a Spanish membrillo or fruit compote usually served with cheeses in Bordeaux. (10th June 2009)