Perhaps, in a few years, it will be more interesting. That said, I tried the 2002 version in early June 2008, and, while quite entertaining, I didn’t find it particularly complex. Had it with 2 friends (aside from a 1988 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche for starters) because my 1993 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos de Epeneaux was hopelessly damaged.
I won’t post my complete notes on the 2002 as it has a lengthy discussion on Comte Armand’s monopole, but my notes on the Seasmoke are as follows:
With Snake River Farm Wagyu steaks for them and roast duck breast on lentils for me:
2002 Sea Smoke Southing - A beautiful, darkly reflective red with a midnight red-violet core. The aromas, initially vaguely truffled and very earthy, are generous with ripe, dark red berries (cherry, raspberry and some strawberry), spice (hints of cinammon), vanilla/oak; all of which were richly and enthusiastically mirrored on the palate in a confidently full body with a touch or kirsch and subtle chocolate and violet undertones. Long and strong, its finish was consistent with its middle. No real mystery or profound complexity here, but a lot of up-front entertainment. (emphasis supplied)
Notably, cola notes, usually at the forefront of California pinot noirs, were barely noticeable. I think this is a good thing. Typically Californian, this wine cannot fairly be accused of refined subtlety or quiet elegance.
I doubt anyone will ever mistake it for a Burgundy, nor should anyone ever expect to. Cali pinot is a totally different animal - more about lively enjoyment and boisterous laughter rather than deep, somber conversation. Each has its place.
As regards the pairing, as can be seen in the picture, the duck is richly sauced. Carlo Miguel’s dishes are robust, enthusiastic and can reach the level of no-holds-barred decadence. Thus, the Sea Smoke was a good, serendipitous match as it easily held its own against my main course. I’d imagine this duck in its sauce would probably have overpowered a 15-year old Pommard.