2005 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast- USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/13/2010)
It takes a while for this wine to open up, yet with some air it does seem to be in a very nice drinking window for those who like bright fruit in their Pinot Noir, with classic Sonoma styling. After a few hours, the nose opens up to a hefty dose of cola and violets, with red cherry dominating. Some purfume and heat as well, but in check. The mouthfeel is strong on acidic bite, from start to finish, and the low ABV is welcome, as I would anticipate that if it was over 14%, it would be overpowering. More cherry and cola on the palate, additional berry notes, nice minerality with a touch of bitterness, and perhaps a hint of mocha flavoring in that cola. The finish is rather acidic, as mentioned earlier, and has a bit of steminess or greenness to it, with sour cherry coming through in the middle point of the finish. It fades off quite gracefully. I’m sure this would have lasted 5-10 more years. (90 pts.)
WS lost much of its magic since Burt ‘retired’. Stayed on through 2004. The wine was not t o my liking. Too much acidity, rather unfocused at times - the best examples missing that zing - extra dimension reminiscent of wines produced in 92,94 and 95.
There is an exception though. I finished my last 2000 WS Chardonnay. It was just stunning.
Top notch chardonnay should be left to age. The same can be said for high-end cali pinot.
I don’t doubt that the new WS have the acidity needed to age. I am just unsure if they have the fruit/flavor foundation for the long haul.
I sold cases of WS five years ago. I recently tasted a friends 98 Allen and Riverblock pinot. Both were disappointing. Perhaps it was the lean vintage. This was the last elevage that Burt consulted through though.
The bottom line is that a lot has happened since 2008. So many good to great pinots are produced year in year out. What use to be a WS hallmark as the anointed garagists - is regularly produced dozens of times over again every year.
I wished that Bob Cabral made pinots with the same deft touch applied to his chardonnays. Perhaps he needs to look at his fruit sources -and, GASP, abandon the formulaic regiment. He’s a terrific winemaker - doing it more cleanly that Burt - but he needs to take more risk.
Todd; Glad you enjoy the Williams-Selyem and I think you hit it on the nail with this comment…“. It fades off quite gracefully. I’m sure this would have lasted 5-10 more years. (90 pts.)” I really enjoy my W-S, especially the SVDs with at least 7 years of age and often with much more. A 2001 “Rochioli Riverblock” that I shared with Glenn last week was positively singing and in no danger of fading…glad I have more! It was an awesome match for Flannery szechuan pepper crusted seared tuna!
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