TN: 2005 Jaboulet - Dom Roure - Crozes Hermitage

It has probably been 15 years since I’ve tried the Roure bottling, which was always riper and more extracted than Jaboulet’s Thalabert Crozes. Jaboulet purchased this producer in the 1990s, and I can’t remember the last time I saw it in the U.S. I found this recently for $42. I gathered from the shop owner that this was a distributor close-out.

Decanted for an hour or so. On the nose, some dark berries and a bit of reduction. Over ~20 minutes in the glass, the nose opens up nicely to more fruit. In the mouth, this is as I remember Roure – ripe, dense/extracted, tannic and a bit rustic. Quite backward, so it doesn’t shout ‘Northern Rhone,’ but it’s in character. Long, dense, tannic finish with solid acidity. No vapid, diluted Crozes here!

I think this needs at least another five years to really begin to open. Maybe 10 years to really come together. No surprise for an 05, I guess. 87++?? Might be well over 90 for me if it opens up and everything comes into alignment.

Will I buy more? Not sure. It’s probably worth the gamble on a bottle or two. But the last Thalabert I had, the 2010, was in the style I remember from the 80s and 90s – much less dense and more elegant than the Roure. And cheaper. I think I’d lean toward the Thalabert if the 2010 is an indicator that Jaboulet is back on form under its new owners.

$42 sounds OK.

The pricing I have seen on the Thalabert bottlings has been much less attractive.

Thanks for the note. I’ve got an 03 I’m itching to try soon.

I’ve loved all the 03 Northern Rhones, so am optimistic on this.

Is this the same Raymond Rourre estate that might have been imported by Kermit Lynch way back when?

I assumed so but never found confirmation of that…

Yes, Jaboulet bought the estate in the mid-1990s.

-Al

I’m not sure what you mean. The Thalebert can be had for under $40. The Roures seems to be $45-$50 normally.

Local distributor likes his profit margins. My favorite shop cannot even get them wholesale under $50.

That’s weird. Every NY state listing on Wine Searcher is under $50, and there are a bunch of offerings at less than $40 in NJ.