It has probably been 15 years since I’ve tried the Roure bottling, which was always riper and more extracted than Jaboulet’s Thalabert Crozes. Jaboulet purchased this producer in the 1990s, and I can’t remember the last time I saw it in the U.S. I found this recently for $42. I gathered from the shop owner that this was a distributor close-out.
Decanted for an hour or so. On the nose, some dark berries and a bit of reduction. Over ~20 minutes in the glass, the nose opens up nicely to more fruit. In the mouth, this is as I remember Roure – ripe, dense/extracted, tannic and a bit rustic. Quite backward, so it doesn’t shout ‘Northern Rhone,’ but it’s in character. Long, dense, tannic finish with solid acidity. No vapid, diluted Crozes here!
I think this needs at least another five years to really begin to open. Maybe 10 years to really come together. No surprise for an 05, I guess. 87++?? Might be well over 90 for me if it opens up and everything comes into alignment.
Will I buy more? Not sure. It’s probably worth the gamble on a bottle or two. But the last Thalabert I had, the 2010, was in the style I remember from the 80s and 90s – much less dense and more elegant than the Roure. And cheaper. I think I’d lean toward the Thalabert if the 2010 is an indicator that Jaboulet is back on form under its new owners.