my Austrian Riesling experience only goes back to the 99 vintage and I cellar a fair amount of various vintages since then (Hirtzberger, Knoll, Pichler, Nigl, Hirsch, Prager, and Nikolaihof, to name a few). Nigl and Hirtzberger have astounded me more than the others, but I must admit to a small sample size. This 2005 Hirtzberger was a near-epiphany wine for me on release a couple years ago, so I eagerly cellared two cases and wished for more. Tonight’s wine doesn’t disappoint.
It’s lost a lot of the acidic edge that gave it some nervosité, but even this calmer rendition has so much happening. A bone-dry wine, it’s got beautiful–thick yet weightless–fruit, stone fruits such as apricot and peach, intertwined with enough minerals to occupy a full-time geologist. The balance is perfect, everything in perfect step and harmony, the finish trailing off like jet contrails, still there long after the wine is gone . . . a wonderful wine that could almost make me forget white Burgundy.
I’m with you, this is a great wine, my favorite Austrian (the best Krachers aside). The stone fruits, minerality, and acid indeed make for great depth. I don’t know if it is bone-dry, but it is certainly not very sweetish despite the exotic fruit.
I’m a big fan of the 2001. I liked it so much that I bought a full case which I really only do for 2-3 wines per year. I thought I might track it into its later years but went through the first six in the first 18 months, and now have only two left. I don’t know that I’ve had a good Austrian riesling beyond a dozen years, what’s the consensus on how long the good ones will go?
Good wines from good vintages will last 30+ years. Personally I think the development stops or maybe peaks around year 15. I had the 95 Hirtz Singerriedel last week and it was stunning. A few 94s (Alzinger, Pichler) at the same dinner were just as good. The oldest Austrian I have had was 1947 GV Kellerberg from Frei Weingartner in 2010 and despite the cork being shot (you could literally push it in with your finger) it was still alive. If the cork was better I think it could have been an amazing wine.
Have some Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner from mid -80’s which are drinking fine. Also Prager Rieslings from the Achleiten, Klaus, and Steinregel vinyards from 1993 which are all still very young.
Great note Alan, thanks for posting - sounds wonderful and another example of how Austria deserves a spot during any conversation of the world’s finest white wines! Wondering if anyone here has tried any Gruner from Singerriedel?
Yep. I’m in agreement that the best Austrian Rieslings can compare in depth and complexity to the finish white Burdundies, but they don’t have the cache’ of Burgundy, or the “impress your wine buddies” clout. Some of the best white wines I’ve ever had were Austrian Riesling
Cheers
and that’s fine with me! I can spend $30-$60 (or more, of course) in Austria and find myself with some of the finest white wines imaginable. the fewer views the better!
I am rather besotted with this wine - it’s a joy young and ages with distinct panache. They can be a tad on the ‘confidently structured’ end of the density scale but then I’m a big fellow so I can manage.
Speaking of big, this is the bottle of 2009 I managed to score:
![[wink.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/04707e6a7bbb03e0153e349d8a9270d30e1e9525.gif "wink"){kind=small}