TN: 2005 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux

  • 2005 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (6/6/2009)
    Bought this from the domaine in Burgundy. The nose is quite expressive–lots of cherries and strawberries. On the palate, it is full and rich and reminds me of a California pinot rather than a classic Burgundy. Also just a bit too much oak showing; in short, a bit too much of everything–if I didn’t know better I would swear this was New World pinot. Lots of blueberries, chocolate, raspberries and strawberries. Certainly enjoyable but not as a classic Burgundy. Will be interesting to see how this wine evolves over the years. (90 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

How were the tannins at this stage Wilfred?

Hi Jack

The wine at this stage is not overly tannic. There’s more vanilla than classic tannins–they’re in the background. The wine is pleasing to drink; its just a bit too “too.”

Wilfred, Jack,
thats " too too " problem is a long lasting one for the domaine but a 98 Gevrey VV lately showed that the wine matured better than I expected.Oak & tannins very well integrated, good fruit, but still quite big for Burgundy. From 2006 on the style has changed more in the direction of classic Burgundy. Thanks for the note.
Cheers
Rainer

Never like Mortet. Like a baby Perrot-Minnot.

Completely agree; I am not a fan of Mortet and find them a bit over the top…I also enjoy California pinot and if I want California pinot , I will buy California pinot.


Cheers!
Marshall [cheers.gif]

Wilfred,

Glad to have found you!
Now, back to business. Do you find the profile you described as unique to this bottling (appellation & vintage) or do you associate these characteristics to Mortet in general, or post-2004 Mortet, etc.?

Very Best,

Dan [imnewhere.gif]

Great to have you here!

I have a slightly different take than some of my friends above. I’ve tasted some Mortet wines from '95, for instance, that have really been quite special–and as Lyle knows, I enjoy a classic Burgundy. I took a couple of bottles to Eleven Madison Park, and we (including the chef) went absolutely nuts over them. As I recall (I hope, correctly), I served one blind to Chet Kern and he enjoyed it as well, and we know Chet likes very classic Burgundies.

I looked up this wine on Tanzer, and he notes that the producer (I assume it was Denis’s son) stated he didn’t much care for this vintage as it was a bit “too too” (my words). Yes, I know Mortet has a reputation for being a bit like Perrot-Minot (whose wines I don’t particularly care for) but the wines from Mortet with age on them have been absolutely sublime.

If we go with Tanzer’s comment, then maybe this vintage was what we might call “Mortet on steroids” which would explain its intensity and my reaction to it.

I will admit I have had not many bottles of young or old Mortet, but what I have I have not liked but am always willing to try more. Now Perrot-Minnot, [suicide.gif]

Wilfred, I guess that you never expected this TN to appear on the Parker blog site. I guess I should have asked you first but it was pretty late when I added it last night. It did shut Baker up though. [drinkers.gif]

lyle, have you tried any of the more recent PMs(as in 06 and 07). Christophe seems to have gone away from the heavy handed oak that made me dislike the wines so much in previous vintages. THe 07 mortets I tasted still very much had the heavier use of oak

Had all the '06’s and hated them. I cannot tell if there is less oak but they are dark and extracted as hell. Scary wine.

I think the whole he is laying off the oak thing is bullshit anyway as people who tend to say it are the people who need to sell it or the people who buy it.

Wilfred, thanks for sharing this wine (and your home) with Michael and I. Look forward to meeting up with you again soon.

[friends.gif] [good.gif]

John—it was terrific meeting you and I look forward to seeing you again soon!