2005 Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin “Mes Favorites” - I took a gamble on popping this, since Burguet is known for being a producer who makes forward, modern wines.
It was wide-the-hell open, and it was spectacular. Lush fruit, oodles and oodles of mostly red fruit, kirsch-like, with hints of plum. So much fruit that the oak is integrated and manifests with hints of spice but without any objectionable charriness. Oh my god, the fruit - not candied, not sweet, not stewed, just waves and waves and waves of pure pinot fruit. A 2005 Bouchard Nuits “Cailles” was like this in its youth, but it’s been years since a '05 showed like this.
Some of the CT reviews call this simple, but I think they’re being fooled by the openness and the gobs of fruit. This actually has a complex and very Burgundian underpinning, with characteristic Gevrey “gaminess” / beef jus and oodles of umami. The tannins are ripe, but there’s a hint of bitter chocolate on the finish that holds it together. It’s admittedly softish and low acid for a burg, but then again, that’s why it’s drinking like this today.
If this was a CA pinot, it would be hailed as a masterpiece. As is, it’s the greatest village Burg I’ve ever had, though I hold out hope that the 2009 Lafarge Volnay VS will surpass this one day. It’s not scratching the same itch as a more austere and transparent bottle, but its different, not worse.