2005 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9/12/2011)
In the mood for something from Piedmont, I decided to check in on this one. A very good wine, but not a great one. Still way too tannic and young, enjoyable nonetheless. I really enjoyed the mouthfeel of this one. The nose was somewhat restrained, not giving a lot. Notes of strawberry and cherries on the palate. A hint of licorice, but not showing this yet. Needs a lot of time, but still glad I opened it. (93 pts.)
I know you are not absolutely serious about that correction but certainly from the big years it is most apropos. However, in “lesser” years the wines can be wonderful much earlier, as I am sure you will agree. I had the 93 “Santo Stefano” in DEC 2004 and wrote this:
"Dinner started with some white wine from France and a simple appetizer of angel hair pasta with shrimp, oil and garlic. The main course was NY strip steaks grilled medium rare on the Smoky Joe, with scalloped potatos and broccoli. The Barbaresco was decanted around 2 hours prior to dinner, with a fine deposit of sediment removed. The bottle was number 1,833 of 6,421 produced (less than 550 cases!).
The color is a mature brick red in the center fanning out to garnet/orange at the rim, typical mature and healthy Nebbiolo color. The nose was slightly dumb and showed a little decaying leaves when first opened, but at dinner time had come around beautifully, revealing a mature, complex, wonderful old school Barbaresco at it’s peak or just slightly past. The nose had lots of red raspberry and orange fruit (Larry said it reminded him of “Frank’s Black Cherry Wishniak” soda, a local Philly favorite), tobacco, incense, sotto bosco (underbrush), and roses, all perfectly knit together. On the palate it was excellent, with spicy orange/red raspberry/red cherry fruit, some earthiness, a very fine grained but still grippy finish, slightly austere structure (not an ounce of fat on it) and we both thought it tasted great with the oil/fat from the steaks cutting the tannin and bringing out the fruit. It was the kind of wine we wished had come in a liter bottle rather than a 750 ml, because we both wanted one more glass when it was all gone :~) Ready to drink and at peak, although I don’t think a few more years in the cellar will hurt it. Giacosa made a very fine cru Santo Stefano in this woefully underappreciated vintage. Grade: right on the border of A- and A, the best old school Barbaresco from 1993 I have had so far with only the 1993 Tenuta Carretta “Bordino” it’s equal. Lots of pleasure in this bottle for both of us."
My experience, too, is that Giacosa wines show poorly young – seemingly pale and light bodied, a bit harsh. It’s happened often enough – and I’ve had enough glorious experiences with older bottles – that I’m with Ken on the timing.
I was being glib. Lesser vintages like 1993 and softer vintages like 1998 can be drunk younger, esp. with some air. 1990’s are really just starting to show their best and are quite young. 1989’s really need more time. Of course, if someone else is opening their bottle of 89, I’m there. After I guzzle down more than my share, I will scold them for opening it too young.
In February, A. Galloni served this at LaPaulee in a line-up of other fine Nebbs and GC Burgs. I’m sure it was given a lot of air in advance. I thought it showed quite well (favorite of Piedmont wines) and improved throughout the session, with the understanding that it’s years from a prime drinking window.
I had a bottle of the Giacosa 05 Rabaja with a local dish in a wine cave in Neive a few months ago. Approachable would be the wrong description, however, the fruit purity and craftsmanship of the wine was very discernible in its relative youth. 94pts +
Why I love Piedmont so much. Rustic wine tavern where you take a bottle from display and have it with great local food!
I’m finding that 05s were delightful on release but are starting to shut up shop now. The acid and grainy tannins of the vintage make me think that revisit in 15-20 years would be apt for a Giacosa that isn’t from bought in grapes!
This is where we stayed in Neive. It has a great restaurant and nice list. You will bump into many great producers at the tiny bar.
The tavern pictured is a regional enotoca for Neive producers where local wines are offered with simple local food. Just ask. It’s a tiny village. Sorry I don’t have more details. It is 30 metres from the above hotel.
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