2005 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (8/23/2014)
Good, but concerning, bottle. This is open and in a drinking plateau - perhaps not ‘the’ plateau, but good enough - and has a very Vosne character, with dark fruit, spice, and hints of something savory, soy-like, that comes with age. The nose is a bit better than the palate, which is just the tiniest bit hollow in the middle, but this is village wine, and that’s expected. But what was not expected was a big dose of astringent tannin - the kind you see in the bad 1998s - hard, drying, like too-strong black tea brewed with too-hot water. I’ve never seen these before in a 2005; but I recognize them from the 2003s, 1998s. In my burg experience (which admittedly only goes back to 1997ish), those astringent tannins don’t age off but become more prominent with time . . . at least for the first 15 years. Sure hope its a problem unique to this bottle and not to other 2005s. (87 pts.)
Many of the 05’s even village are still pretty structured and not giving up much fruit. Just my take. Not sure if that is what is happening here since I don’t own this one. My 05s are all in my don’t drink pile.
David,
If one opens a 2005 burg and finds it too hard, should one really blame the wine?
(Yes I understand your criticism was far more specific than “too hard.”) It’ll come around. I’d bet on it.
Thanks for the note David - I will keep away from the 05 HN stash and hope it’s a phase or aberration…