2004 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs Cote de Bechalin- France, Champagne (2/5/2021)
Oldest CB I’ve had…brilliant golden metallic, green tinge color…engaging nose which instantly reminded me of DomP…yellow apple, smoky lees, chalky limestone, dried honey, caramel apples, griddled pancakes. Not an explosion upon popping the cork…mellow and graceful bubbles, yet the old dude can still light up the dance floor with a vibrant and refreshing tingle…lemon sours, green apple skin tartness with plenty of verve. Wonderful richness of orchard fruits…aged nuances of truffle butter, white honey…saline with chalky minerals…smoky match strike lees ala a fine Meursault…pretty florals of white flowers and apricot blossoms. Such class and brightness…in a perfect place right now…and an absolute PLEASURE to drink! (96 pts.)
Good to hear it is drinking well at 16. Popularity with the somm crowd creates a perception that star grower champagnes should be consumed young. I am hopeful I can control the early gratification urge and have a fair amount of CB left to consume between ages 10 to 25.
Curiosity is getting the best of me. Presle and Haute Lemble can be found in Section ZD01 at the link for those interested. Les Ursules and Creux d’Enfer (also appearing on ZH01) are in ZK01. There is a vineyard on ZH01 named “Les Cotes”, though I’m unable to match this up with the Bechalin label. Perhaps someone with some more time can take up the search.
According to the cadastre, it looks like it is technically in Polisy. Go to the eastern border of Polisy and it sits right up against Celles-sur-Ource’s western boundary a little south of the heart of the village.
According to the maps and land registration system, yes, but I know of numerous examples where the French cadastre says one thing and the wine grower/producer says another. This can be for historical reasons or for how the locals tend to refer to things. I’m not sure he would legally be able to state/print the Cote de Bechalin vineyard is in Celles-sur-Ource on the label or packaging (and he doesn’t), but it could certainly be talked about in that way or even written up in supporting materials (as long as no one complained).