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2004 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (9/13/2009)
Translucent garnet. Spices, herbs, red fruits, cranberry, and pepper on the nose. Red fruit with a nice acidity and a slight herbal element on the palate. A very delicious young wine.
I think that the “green” element that so many decry in 04 burgundies is here (for me it is the herbal element that the nose and palate seem to have). For me, this “green” element was not offputting in this wine. Indeed, I found it to be an enjoyable aspect of the wine. However, I do not uniformly dislike the so called “green” aspect that I have found in some 04 burgundies. While it has been offputting in some, it has been an enjoyable element in others. If you are one of those who find any of this “green” element offputting, you will not like this wine. If you do not necessarily find that element offputting, you may like it.
Also, for what its worth, I’ve found that, in 04 burgundies that I’ve noticed have a “green” element, that the “green” element seems to be diminishing with time. I’m not sure that it’s going away so much as that it is somehow being harmonized with the other elements of the wine so that it does not stick out, but is just integrated into a greater whole. In any event, like Mr. Gilman, I am optimistic that these wines will get better with time.
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