When Melissa scored a couple of remarkably pungent local white truffles for dinner, we agreed that the meal really deserved to be matched with a local Pinot. Imagine our surprise when the only Oregon Pinot we could come up with in our kitchen was an '04 Bergstrom that was just a little too special to burn up on a Monday evening, truffles notwithstanding. We dug a bit deeper and unearthed a souvenir from a previous SoCal holiday - a 2004 Wolff Vineyards Edna Valley San Luis Obispo Estate Dijon Clones Selection. Whew.
As I recall, Wolff was a pleasantly low-key place just south of SLO. Seems like the tasting room was nothing more than a pleasantly-appointed mobile home and patio area situated on a hillside in full view of the Edna Valley and 125 acres of grapes. I believe they mostly sell their grapes to other producers, reserving a small amount for their own processing.
After popping the cork, both Melissa and I remarked on the vibrant nose on this wine. It’s got lots of brambly raspberry overtones, along with nice funky earthy stuff, and even some spicy notes going on. 14% alcohol, but not a lot of heat. A few swirls in the glass releases more red fruits and earthiness. The wine is a clear, pure garnet with a hint of copper at the rim. On the palate, assertive acidity and considerable tannic structure - this wine isn’t over the hill by a long shot. My impression is that 2003 was a hot year in CA just like everywhere else on the planet, but this wine isn’t an unstructured fruit bomb at all. On the contrary, it’s fairly elegant and restrained - if not terribly complex. It’s kind of a one-trick pony, but it’s a pretty nice trick. The texture isn’t as silky as some Pinots, but it’s lively and pleasant. Finish is sweet but relatively short.
I thought the wine paired nicely with our dinner. It wasn’t profound by any means, but it was a pleasant and somewhat sophisticated accompaniment. Over-extraction, oak, and general goopiness were nowhere to be found.