TN: 2003 Philip Togni

Togni has long been one of my favorite producers of California Cabernet Sauvignon. I decided to open this with Easter dinner, which included a standing rib roast among other things. This is the first of three bottles I purchased on futures at the Bassin’s California Barrel Tasting seven or eight years ago, and the bottles have been in my cellar since they arrived.

I have heard that 2003 is not the greatest for Togni, but this bottle was more than satisfying. It has nice red fruit and violet aromatics and, while not a blockbuster on the palate, shows some subtle pencil shaving/lead and a hint of the Togni green streak that seems so polarizing. It also has youthful, red fruit braced by nice acidity and some receding but present tannic structure. Had I not read some other notes suggesting that this vintage of Togni is more approachable than is typical for the producer, I would not have considered opening it now based on my experience with other Togni wines. It was a good decision. The wine was a splendid compliment to Easter dinner. While it does not seem to need as much time as this producer’s wines from other vintages have required, I think this will hold and maybe even improve for several more years. It definitely is in a good place now.