2003 Kongsgaard Chardonnay- USA, California, Napa Valley (11/18/2009)
My third bottle of this since release…the first was an epiphany(97pts), the second showed some unbalance, but still tasty(95pts)…tonight, an aged beauty! Dark golden Sauternes in color…still quite huge in creamy fruit(peach,apricot,baked apples,honey figs)…absolutely wonderful mineral spices and aged honey nuttiness! Ok, tell me this is an expensive super Grand Cru…and I wouldn’t doubt you. Age has brought out the perfect combo of hazelnut/butter/lemon acidity/waxy honeycomb…all hugely spiced, and lifted well with minerals galor. Add the creamy butterscotch oak, and it brings it all together. As it warms in my glass…the better it gets! Glad, and sad, to have one more left…Calif. Chard at its best! (96 pts.)
I had a very tired 2004 at the Ebbe dinner and though my notes were similar to yours I wouldn’t exactly describe the wine with the glowing superlatives.
I’ll need to try a 2003. I had one of my last 02’s a little while back and it is on the quick decline. The aged characteristics didn’t come close to replace the delicious lush fruit it offered in its youth.
I’m not sure if there’s a style change going on, but I’ve found the '06 to be a very different style wine with much more acidic backbone and if I was a betting man, I’d say that the '06 holds and improves better than the '02.