2003 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (7/8/2010)
Darker golden, green tinge color; rich baked green apples, chalk, match strike, smoked seashell, slight sherry nose. A little more advanced than I like, not pox, but I can see the Vintage effects. Creamy and rich in the mouth…ripe pit fruit, tart baked apples, lemon citrus acid, chalk dust, crushed shells for a little salty funk. At first, being a GC, I thought this was going to be a flop. The Vintage isn’t good, little sign of pox, not showing anything better than a 1st cru…but, as the wine warms(and maybe I’m a little drunker#…the wine gains on me…and I start to dig it! Richer fruit than I am acustomed to with Chablis…and not blown away by the GC status…but its a nice wine, with some tasty complexities, and a good feel. Wouldn’t hold much longer though, so drink up. (91 pts.)
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after the premox implosion of several of the 96 grand crus from Droin (excepting the fabulous Vaudesir), I’ll never buy another one.
Another bottle tonight…and what a difference a bottle makes! This bottle clearly shows that my last one was affected with some pox. This bottle is totally clean, bright, and fresh! Still needs time to open…but it is a clearer yellow gold, slight green in color. Creamy like lemon chiffon on the palate…and when open, shows nice crushed seashell minerals, honey spice, green apple peel, chalk dust. Again as before, not really super complex, more subtle, and really not better than a lot of 1strs I’ve had…but for the vintage and price I paid, I’ll take it! Tasty Chablis anyway you look at it! 93pts
I’ve had a handful of the Droin 2004s recently (MdTonnerre, Valmur and Clos), and they were all quite splendid.
I have limited experience with Droin, but I had the '03 Les Clos earlier this year, and while I wasn’t getting any premox notes, I did notice it was richer and creamier than what I expect from GC Chablis. I attributed it to the '03 vintage. It seems you noted the same qualities. It was quite good, but I think the '03’s will have a much shorter run. I do have one remaining bottle that I will most likely drink in the next year.
One day we’ll have a glass and remind me then to tell you about my e-mail correspondence with Benoit.
Whoa, please, share; I had a couple of mixed cases of their '96 1er and Grands Crus that went south and I’d love to hear what they had to say about the issue. The American importer has kept conspicuously mum about it as far as I know.
Their 07 and 08’s are quite brilliant.
Their '96s were wonderful, too; for a few years.