2002 OREGON PINOT RETRO + PORT/MADEIRA - JV’s (1/25/2014)
Last night a group of us braved the cold and high winds to drive to our friend John V’s home for a tasting of Oregon Pinots. The wines, except the dessert wines, came from my cellar and had been purchased on release. It seemed like a good time to do this tasting at 12 years from vintage. 2002 was a great vintage in Oregon, but we were curious if the wines held up. Our group ranged from those who prefer their wines right off the UPS truck to those who like them as rigor mortis is setting in. For my tastes, these, as a group, are still not at peak and could have used some air. The were allowed to breathe for about 30 minutes while we drank the starters and talked. The wines got better all night long IMO. The wines were served blind. Breads and cheeses were available. We sampled them over three hours. Most of these wines were past their drinking windows based on the critics. I think we all agreed that none of these were over the hill yet and most not yet at peak.
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2003 Sineann Riesling Medici Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
An awesome start to the night. This is a deep golden color. The nose is sweet with some petrol A bit of golden raisins too. Nice texture. Velvety. On the palate, minerals and some golden raisins. Slight heat on the finish. This got better with air as it unwound and showed complexity. Blind some of the guesses included an Alsace VT, Sauternes, and Germany. Most did not think this was Oregon. Vied for WOTN. (94 pts.) -
2012 Sineann Riesling - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
Compared to the 03, this was very different. Not sure if the grapes still come from Medici or not. Light gold in color. The nose is very tight at first. With air it shows some grapefruit and oranges. Slightly oily texture. Its young and refreshing but not a lot of complexity. A really nice tangerine quality on the finish. Blind, most guesses went to Oregon, but either Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc. I think it was because it “less Riesling” than the 03, still a nice wine. Screw capped, I wonder how this will age. (90 pts.)
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2002 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir First Class - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
I had this at 85 points the first time thru. It got better all night with air. It really improved with some cheese. There is an acidic streak that demands food. Purple/ruby in color. The nose has lots of spice, rhubarb, cranberries and cherries. Medium bodied. Tart cherries on the palate. With food and air, it starts to show some complexity. Probably near peak, but some air time would still be a good idea. (90 pts.) -
2002 Sineann Pinot Noir Resonance Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
Another wine that benefitted from air and food. Ruby/brown in color and a bit cloudy. Perhaps this had some sediment mixed up too. Anyway, the nose is really great. It has some funk going on, just a hint though. With air, more fresh cherries appear. There is a tingy acidity at first, but this blew off too. However, this bottle had a strong streak of acid that was tamed nicely with food. My score on this jumped about 5 points from the first taste to the last. Layered cherries, earth and spice on the palate. Nice long finish. No hurry on these and I am glad to have some left. (92 pts.) -
2002 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
The only wine without a first or second place vote from the group. Still, I thought this showed better than I was expecting. Light ruby in color. clear. The nose is tight at first giving way to rhubarb and cherry juice. Nice texture. On the palate, this is good to go. I don’t think it gets better. Some layered complexity. Nice finish. really didn’t change much over the evening IMO. (90 pts.) -
2002 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir The Upper Terrace - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
The groups WOTN. Nice showing. Ruby/purple in color. The nose has spice, cherries, some dried wood. On the palate, deep cherries, cherry pie filling and some menthol. Still tasting youthful and needs some time. Great texture. Long finish. If I didn’t know, I would have guessed an 08. (92 pts.) -
2002 Sine Qua Non Pinot Noir Hollerin’ M - USA, Oregon, Yamhill County
Ruby/purple in color although a bit flat. The nose is interesting with cherries, cranberries, slight funk and a dusty quality. Great texture and complex on the palate. delicious cherries. It does turn a bit cough syrup and show some heat on the finish. Still an outstanding wine, not yet at peak. (93 pts.) -
2002 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
Another bottle that far exceeded my expectations. Dark purple/ruby in color. The nose has some funk along with spice, cherries, and some pie filling. On the palate, this is young and got better all night. Lots of juicy cherries. This is vibrant and alive. The groups #2, my WOTN. (94 pts.) -
2002 St. Innocent Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
Yeah, a St. Innocent that was close to being mature. Not quite, but close. Doesn’t happen too often. Purple/ruby in color though a bit flat. The nose has spice, rosemary and cherries. The palate is very nice. It has a lovely texture followed by tannins. This is the only wine with still noticeable tannins. It has more black cherry fruit. This still drinks youthful but at least it seems to be getting there. I remarked that these wines seem to be like Dunn in Napa when it comes to aging. (92 pts.) -
2002 Panther Creek Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
The group liked this more than, but I still liked it. Probably the closest wine on the table to peak. Ruby in in color, clear. The nose is earthy with cherries, spice and an herbal note. Black cherries on the palate with some cranberries. Nice texture. Complex. Nice finish. Improved with food. (90 pts.)
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2012 Sineann Pinot Noir Resonance Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
I opened this at the end as I knew some of those in attendance really liked big young wines. This is one of the bigger Pinots in Oregon and 14.8% alc. For some that might be an issue, not for me. I know some complain about how big these Pinots are, but I have heard that going back to the 99’s and they age out beautifully. If you like them big, drink them young otherwise, let them age for a decade. This one is purple/ruby in color. The nose is dark cherries, cherries and some spice. Full bodied. On the palate, there are cherries. Very primary although a lush texture.
This is the last year for Sineann here as Jadot has bought the vineyard. I am sorry to see it go as it has always been my favorite in the Sineann lineup. Ironic that Peter’s push for quality at the vineyard eventually lost him the fruit. Disclaimer- I have been friends with the owner of Sineann, Peter Rosback, since our college days at Purdue in the mid-70’s. (93 pts.)
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2011 Sineann Pinot Noir Ice Dance - USA, Oregon
An odd wine that I had in the cellar, so I threw it in (like a bit of sorbet before the next course). It is made from Pinot Noir grapes cryogenically frozen. Rose in color. The nose is lemony, tomatoes and some simple syrup. A bit cloying on the palate for my tastes. Some cherries and citrus on the finish. I know some who would like this. It is good and different, but a taste was plenty for me. (88 pts.)
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1985 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Decanted for 7 hours prior to serving. Purple in color. The nose is nice but not typical. Spice (cinnamon) is the biggest component. There is also some raspberry on the nose. On the palate, this is soft and complex. Very smooth, velvety texture. The wine glides down the throat. Still plenty of black raspberry fruit. Some complexity. Quite an enjoyable wine. (93 pts.) -
1968 D’Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva - Portugal, Madeira
Brown in color with green and orange nuances. The nose is nutty with milk chocolate, and orange peel. Smooth and easy to drink. Complex and balanced. A bit dusty along with caramel and tea on the palate. Long finished. John said this was Roy Hersh’s favorite young Madeira and I knew what it was. I bought a few back in the day on Roy’s recommendation as well. Beautiful wine. (94 pts.) -
1922 D’Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva - Portugal, Madeira
So John went into the kitchen and brought out a bottle of this that was about 60% consumed. He said it had been opened for 6 to 9 months, which, of course, is no problem for an older Madeira. The cork was stuck, so Charlie attempted to get the cork out, but it broke off even with the rim. John said he would be right back (we assumed he was getting a cork screw#, but no, he came back with another partially consumed bottle of the same wine.
We eventually got both bottles opened and had a nice taste.
The wines is brown in color, more golden at the rim. There are some green specks in it. The nose is toffee, coffee and oranges. On the palate, this is smooth, complex and easy to sip. Delicious. A real treat to think my father was 11 and my mother 1 when this wine was grown. #94 pts.#
Thanks to John V for hosting and for the great dessert wines. I agree with our engineer Scott that Oregon finds a nice comfort zone between California and Burgundy in style. Jeff K, who goes out to IPNC every year thought 02 was a watershed year in Oregon where quality really began to get notched up and has continued over the decade. Of course, vintages do matter in Oregon depending on one’s personal preferences. I am glad to have some 02’s left and will continue to age my Pinot’s for far longer than the critics seem to imply. Finally, as I write this a day later, I go back to that Riesling. From an off #for reds) 03 vintage, this Oregon Riesling was really an amazing wine. It was my last sip before I left and I can still taste it!
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