TN: 2001 LdH "Gravonia"

Ciao,

Two nights ago I went over to a friend’s crib and cooked some dinner for him, his wife and some friends. Now, I am no larry99 with mad kitchen skillz, I just make simple stuff that I like to eat. I did make a great, if I say so myself, white lasagna, using ground pork, bechamel sauce and the key to the dish, lots of Fontina cheese. And yes, I did learn that one from chef99. To go with this appetizer we had the 2008 Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina, always a delight to drink and this was no exception. I have had many good Falanghinas over the years but Feudi is as good as any I have tasted. A beautiful buttercup yellow with hints of gold, the nose is floral, white flowers, a penetrating and rich bouquet of honeyed lemon, intense. Medium body, good acidity but not as sharp as most Italian whites, it has a roundness and silkiness to it that is really nice, lots of fresh white fruit, more honey, just delicious. Grade: A-.

We followed this with the 2009 Gattavecchi, Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The Vernaccia was good but the order was poor, it is too light and delicate to come after the Falanghina, but lesson learned, we still enjoyed the Vernaccia with it’s fresh, crisp lemon and melon flavors and sharp acidity, simple but delicious, and a good QPR at about $10 or so. Grade: solid B.

The main course was roast chicken glazed with balsamic and XVOO, brown rice and cabbage. I had double decanted the red, the 1990 Mastroberardino Taurasi “Radici” about 5 hours before dinner, and it showed a very light corkiness, coming and going. The color was gorgeous, a deep blood red with a touch of orange at the rim in natural sunlight, mature but certainly not indicating any rush to drink it, and an interesting flavor that did not appear to be too marred by the TCA, but who knows what a good bottle would be like? It all became academic as by dinnertime the TCA was worse and pretty much made the wine undrinkable. My guess is it did not seem so bad when still cold from the cellar, but air and warmer temperature brought it out. Anyway, Grade: corked. We put it aside.

My friend cracked the 2001 Lopez y Heredia Vino Blanco, “Gravonia”, my first time with this wine, although I have heard and read much about it over the years, especially here. I believe he hand carried this bottle back from the winery. A very pretty yellow/gold color with hints of orange in it. The nose is showing a sherry like note, that famous “oxidation” element that reminds me most of a fino Sherry. I am not sure how to describe the fruit here, more like nutty and woody, no real “fruit” to my nose. On the palate interesting, good acidity but full bodied, lots of flavor but again not what I would call fruity. A long, almondy finish, the wine was interesting with the bird, and to be honest, I am looking forward to trying this again, I have a feeling that like fine Scotch or grappa, this has to grow on you, it is hard to appreciate the first time. Grade: B+ (?)(grading as a Gravonia, so I am leaving room for further grade inflation).

Ciao, dc.

They’re remarkable wines, and remarkable values. The oxidation note tends to blow off, too. I can see how they could be an acquired taste, but I have to say that I acquired the taste with my first glass!

Personally, I derive more pleasure from the LdH whites than the reds, though I respect the latter.

Gravonia and roast chicken is a very good pairing. Gravonia and jamon serrano or Iberico is an excellent pairing. Gravonia and chicken sauteed with matchsticks of serrano ham is an awesome pairing.

John and Patrick,

Thanks for your inputs. It is definitely a wine I will be trying again. Quite unique and interesting.