Unless I am very much mistaken, this wine was made by Ken Wright, for Dick Shea.
Dark reddish-purple and clear as a bell. There’s an odd but pleasant initial dark spiciness - warm cinnamon like in hot spiced cider? Maybe I’m just suggestible because of Thanksgiving, but the fruit seemed very cranberry to me, with an accompanying cedary quality. It has an odd weight to it, kinda gooey on the back of the palate. But the acids are nice and food friendly, the tannins are fine, and the finish is long. I really like this wine. And given that I genuinely believe that most 1998’s (as opposed to 1999’s) are over the hill, it is especially notable. If I have any specific criticism, it is that it would seem to be a little disjointed at this point - but that seems like it would be the least likely of problems with an OPN over a decade old. While I think this could have another 4 or 5 years in it, I’d be more inclined to open it sooner than later, but let it breathe a couple of hours before serving. 89+.