TN: 1998 Clape Cornas

WINE TALK
1

This was purchased a decade or so ago at a point when I was trying to rectify my failure to buy Northern Rhones for some years.

Decanted ~90 minutes ahead. The scents were gloriously classic syrah even as I decanted. The cork was sound, with little wine up the sides (a big improvement from Clape corks in the 80s).

In the glass, the nose was just what one hopes for from the region. Powerful, mainly plums. No reduction (!). Clean, full, rich.

In the mouth, it was less satisfying. Hard tannins at first. Pretty rustic, in fact. More Madiran than Cornas. It benefitted from the food (pork tenderloin with fennel seeds and a fennel and chard gratin), but it was still a bit simple and coarse on the palette. Overall, I’d say 87 points. It never quite delivered on the promise of the nose.

I have three more bottles. I don’t see any rush to drink them, but I’m not sure if they will evolve. At 16 years, I’m afraid this may have plateaued.

2

Sorry to hear about this, John. Was that the first of the bottles you purchased? How was the provenance? Your experience is certainly at odds with the last bottle I had in February 2012: “Stunningly good! Nearly five years since my last bottle, and worth the wait. One of those power-without-weight wines. Loads of minerals, earth and iron, along with a solid core of deep fruit with hints of anise, and oh so long. Flat-out terrific.”

I purchased mine on release and have two more left. I’m inclined to leave those two alone for another few years. Hope your next bottle is better!

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3

Sorry to hear this. Last one I had was three years ago, that bottle had beautiful deep fruit, great acidity, and was still very young. Every bottle is different…

4

My last was similar. In great shape. Was this a 100 pointer Parker wine?

5

Only a 90 Mike. RP also remarked on the hard tannins. His overall observations read as if he had a young version of John’s bottle.

6

This was bought in 2003 from MacArthur and has been in commercial storage since.

7

MacArthur is great in terms of provenance, so probably just the variation of a 16 year old wine.

8

I had an excellent bottle of this wine on Friday night, as it happens. No doubt still fairly tannic; some roast lamb helped with that. It’s not the most elegant Cornas, but that’s not what Cornas is known for anyway. Pretty good depth, I thought, and certainly pleasurable with the right food. I think Clape needs the most time of any Cornas, though. A 98 Verset side by side was much more ready.

9

I’ve had many Clapes from different vintages over three decades that were smoother and more interesting at this stage. The nose was so effusive that I don’t think more decanting would have helped. The tannins seem inherent in the wine – not some bottle variation – so I’m surprised that so many of you have had such good experiences. I’ve got three more bottles, so I will have the opportunity to retry it. Thanks for the responses. Now I’m really curious to try it again!

FYI, I just noticed that my bottle has no importer strip. Given that I bought it in 2003, a little late, perhaps it came to MacArthur by some non-standard route. (There was no French revenue strip – the sign of a gray market bottle purchased on the domestic French market.)