In preparation for our trip to France this summer, I set out to learn a bit about Burgundy. I asked a few knowledgeable friends for tips, and Michael Bowden very graciously and generously responded with actual wine! He sent me several bottles, along with his own notes for comparison. Steve and I opened the first of Michael’s bottles last night at home with porcini risotto.
1997 Champy Vosne Romanee Les Suchots
Michael’s note on this wine referenced “Vosne spice”. I did a Google search, and while I found countless references to Vosne spice, I couldn’t find a single real explanation of what the term means. As a result, we tasted this wine with no preconceptions of what to expect. It was silky textured, fresh and lively on the palate, with a touch of bottle sweetness and a meaty fullness that Jorge (¡Gracias!) helped me identify as umami. It was that last quality that truly distinguished this wine’s mouthfeel from the Oregon Pinots that we usually drink.
The bouquet was consistent for three hours until we finished the bottle-- bright sour cherry, strawberry, damp earth, mushroom, cinnamon-pepper-clove, and something very distinctive that we couldn’t identify until, well, we could. In a moment of inspiration, Steve said “hoisin” and pulled out a jar from the fridge. He was dead-on.
We truly enjoyed this wine, but just as importantly, it was a great educational experience for us. A big thanks to Michael for his generosity, and to everyone (even the Todds) who helped us figure out how “Vosne spice” fit into our experience.