TN: 1996 Red Burgundy

WINE TALK
#1

1996 Domaine Thomas-Moillard - Beaune - Greves 1er Cru.

I wanted to check in on this particular red Burgundy as it approaches its twentieth birthday. Popped and poured, 13% alcohol on the label. Beaune Greves are known for their longevity, so I have been told.

Deep red cherry colour with a light pink rim. The nose is initially more closed than open, with a dry earthiness making its way out if the glass, as well as a hint of dried red fruits. The mouthfeel is savoury and silky, with an enveloping freshness that hints at tartness. Nice on its own, marginally better with food. Shall I hold onto my remaining bottles? My gut instinct is to revisit another bottle in 3 years, but that these will continue to develop more tertiary characteristics in the future.

#2

Sounds like maybe it could have benefitted from a little air or decanter time maybe?

#3

I would give a 96 a serious decant.

#4

This is from the Thomas-holdings - so it´s kind of Domaine-bottled.
Thomas-Moillard made very old-fashioned traditional wines, quite on the rustic side …
the most enjoyable bottles I have had were from the 60ies, 70ies, early 80ies … most others were too young (for me) - even a 2000 some months ago.
So I would hold this 1996 for another(at least) 5, better 10 years - and in any case would give enough air after opening.

#5

Chaps, thank you for your comments and advice. It is interesting for me to buy and drink wines like this that, at 19 years old, still needs a significant number of years to reach maturity.

#6

Good Burgundy often does, and 96 was a very structured year, with lots of tannin and acid.

#7

The problem is that once you get to about 20, the incidence of bottle variation starts to escalate (for lots of wines), so you are trading maturity for notably increased risk.

#8

But a lot of 1996s are coming around now (unlike most 1995s). Had a great Geantet-Pansiot Charmes a week or two ago.

#9

Well, Jay…i’ve had some lovely experiences with 1995 reds recently. This year a Hubert Lignier Chambolle-Les Baudes and a Daniel (Patrice) Rion NSG “Les Hauts Pruliers”, both 1er crus, which were wonderful with significant aeration. And, this weekend, had a near-perfect Choppin-Groffier Clos-Vougeot which was as good as CV gets…and that’s a real compliment. Finesse, concentration, structure. Delicious and classy.

So…I’m high on the '95s I’ve had, though I think they will be even better in 2020 and needs a good deal of open aeration to show their beauty.

Looking forward to checking in on some '96s next year…though expecting to let them aerate.


FWIW

#10

'96 Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin is singing at the moment but should improve!

#11

I’ll second that motion. Besides a few Burgundies (for example Ambroise Corton le Rognet, Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin, Ponsot CdlR, Faiveley Chambertin-CdB) there have been several Cali Cabs from '95 that outperformed my expectations. Then add some stunningly good Vouvrays (Huet LeMont Moelleux, Pichot Les Larmes de Bacchus) to the list, and it’s no surprise 1995 is one of my all-around favorite years. If it were a better vintage for Riesling, it would top my list.

#12

I keep meaning to dip my toes in the 1995 waters when I think I’ll have plenty of time to leave it in the decanter. But in general I agree that they’ll almost certainly better in another 5 years.

Also, a lot of my current 1995 stash is Corton which tacks another 5 years onto the tally :slight_smile:

#13

So when should I drink my 1992 Corton’s? :slight_smile:

#14

1992 Corton should be fine now … [cheers.gif]

#15

Though that’s my opinion…with aeration they are beautiful now. I’m somewhat surprised as I remember how that vintage was when in barrel and when first released. I didn’t buy it too heavily…as I feared it had too much tannin for the fruit…or it would be close. The brown paper filter I use was full of sediment…so…it seems the tannins have precipitated out very nicely…and en masse.

#16

Another fan of 1995 burgs here. Non Vaucrains Chevillons are singing.