TN: 1995 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon

I popped and decanted this wine about an hour before serving. I have had this about five times before, but my most recent bottle was almost a year ago. On this occasion, the wine is very dark and shows only feint signs of lightening on the edges of the glass. The nose shows dark fruit and earth. In the mouth the wine still seems youthful, with plenty of structure to justify further aging. Cedar, cigar box, red fruit, and a touch of resin vie for attention, while drying tannins come into play in the finish. As usual with Togni wines, this bottle reminds me of Bordeaux. Togni doesn’t get a lot of coverage on the boards, but I have always enjoyed his wines. They also seem to be a relative bargain in the world of Cali cabs.

Good note on what is, consistently, great wine.

thanks for the note brad. i thought that togni was for me though!

i guess you made it back safely?

Wow, Brad, thanks…I actually have a bottle of this wine, and the notes on CT have been less than glowing, and the tradition of Togni infers that this is far too young, even now. Your note is encouraging…

Todd, I didn’t even look at CT until I saw your reply. The notes there appear to be all over the map. Maybe some writers were looking for something a little more new world in style? Only a guess.

Mike, I did make it back without incident. And I’m pretty sure I have one or two more '95 Togni left. I thought you were only drinking Dayquil these days.

Todd, if you were not a fan of the oak in the Lewelling last week, stay clear of these for the first dozen years.

I did not think that many trees existed in ANY forest.

I have fallen for the Togni wines ever since Max Marinucci produced a beautiful bottle of the 1993 at a lunch we attended with a couple of Bordelais producers. There were several great wines on the table, but the Togni impressed everyone with its great balance, fruit and the beginnings of some seriously interesting mature flavors. There was also a good level of acidity, and I think that may be off-putting to those who are used to the more opulent, fleshy, soft blockbustes coming out of Napa.

Personally, they remind me of young versions of the old California wines I have come to really love.

old school CA producer whose wines require 10-15, minimum, sideways to begin to show properly. not a producer who will impress ‘cultish’ drinkers.

I have been HEALED!

today is my first day drinking in over a week.

The '94 and '97 are also drinking nicely now - still presenting as young wines, but certainly capable of providing something of interest to the taster. I think one reason for Togni’s low profile (at least on EBob - I can’t say I’ve ever seen a note here before) is the same reason that some folks don’t like Pichon Lalande - i.e., that “alleged” green streak of flavor to the wine.

And I am saying “alleged” not to diminish the reality of the situation, but only to recognize that it’s apparent some folks are much more sensitive to this than others, and I am apparently relatively immune to this sensory perception, as I’ve never noticed it before.

Bob: funny, I almost posted an identical reply.

I’ve been blown away by some wines from Togni (the 90 and 91 were especially memorable). The best examples seem to have a richness that complements the natural structure of the wine, with a noticeable mint component that doesn’t overwhelm the wine.

The lesser examples definitely exhibit a green pepper, herbaceous streak that I just can’t get over. I’m tolerant of a lot of distracting flavors in small doses (soy, mushroom, oxidative notes, dare I say a little brettiness…) but I can’t do green pepper.

Interesting site up there on Spring Mountain. Damn Pierce’s disease quite a problem for them, I recall.

best,
Doug