Folks - there are so many Cabernets of less than cult status that are so good, particularly from a great vintage, of single ownership, and impeccable storage. I have been treated to so many of these bottles, and last night’s indulgence was just that:
Dark red color, showing no sign of its age. Rich and intense bouquet, followed by immense flavors of cherry and chocolate, overlaid on a toasty background. Awesome mouthfeel and lengthy finish - just textbook aged California Cabernet.
This one is no where near its end. Consumed with a consommé of black trumpet mushroom, spinach and dumpling filled with duck, followed by lamb tenderloin in a rich sauce, accompanied by polenta and cavolo nero.
Wow, that’s an encouraging note. I still have a mixed case of 93-95 Hess Collection Cabs. I was kind of disappointed in how they came across at the 12ish year mark, so maybe they’ve reached some positive tertiary notes.
IMO, the 94 was a disappointment for the Hess Coll. Cab. At that point it was probably my favorite wine as the low price was important then and I had really just begun collecting in the 90 vintage. 91 & 92 Hess were really good wines and excellent value. Oh for the days of $12 cabs.
93 wasn’t a very good cab vintage but their 93 was still pretty tasty. when the blockbuster 94 vintage came along, I felt they really only matched 93, and fell short of their 91 & 92. I also think the 95 that followed was better than the 94.
Storage and provenance are so important. Years ago the good folks at Simi were kind enough to give me a bottle of the 1935 cab reserve, a bunch of which had been found behind a wall when renovating the winery (according to the folks there). Upon opening…utter amazement. Fresh and lively. Would never have guessed 30s…maybe 70s or even early 80s. Great way to celebrate my Dad’s 70th birthday.
Fast track to a year later and the same bottle and vintage show up as a mystery wine at a 59/61 first growth tasting. Clive Coates guesses it is 1928 Lafite. It certainly tasted like at least a 1935 on that occasion. Same wine, different provenance - completely different experience.
Thanks for the note. I enjoyed this one over the holidays, along with the '96 and the '94 Reserve. With the caveat that all were purchased through auction, from different sources, the '94 Regular bottling showed best of the three that evening and has been consistently pleasing.
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