1994 Dominus Estate Napanook Vineyard- USA, California, Napa Valley (10/8/2014)
Wow, this is a special bottle. I admit to knowing nothing about this bottling/vintage prior to last night, though the impression this left will be with me for years to come. When others talk about, or pour, some of their favorite California powerhouses, I usually sigh, and try to keep a open mind. The reason is because this wine, with the promise of even greater heights of expression yet to come, manages to precisely pack volumes of dense, focused red and black fruits with a concoction of spice, soil and floral top notes that render the taster motionless, or at least greatly humbled; whereas recent/modern efforts are kind of the opposite. If a King or Queen walks into a room, it’s common (courtesy? obligation?) to stand, acknowledging their presence, even if you don’t particularly care for them, their politics, whatever. However, if this wine enters the room, I’m happy to stand, knowing full well I’m in the presence of (actual) greatness. Full-bodied, seamless, artfully lifted and detailed. 14,1% abv. (fully resolved), thru 2029, very highly recommended
Aerated to decanter one hour, returned to bottle, and served non-blind several hours later.
In five or six years, with a 1 hour aeration in decanter. Obviously it’s great now, but the mind goes numb and the knees get weak when one begins to imagine this at its peak/peak plateau.
I have twice opened this very wine and served it blind at dinners at my house in Bordeaux.
A) Everyone loved it.
B) No one thought it was anything other than a Bordeaux.
Obvously the purpose of any winemaker is not to be an ersatz anything, or a carbon copy of something else.
But, the classic style of this wine would throw anyone off (in a good way!).
In fact, Alex, this wasn’t in the glass but 30 seconds before someone remarked that this would be a genuine ringer in a BDX/left-bank, blind tasting. All the hallmarks, extremely classy. Brilliant stuff, as they say
Had the 85 in a group of other wines from the 80s in a blind flight. It stood out as the best in the group which included an 81 Margaux, 85 Mondavi Reserve, 87 Heitz Martha’s, and 82 Hanzell. I would say that it had just entered a good drinking window and had plenty of life, but that is just my opinion.
I had an impressive 1984 Dominus last year that was still firm, even a bit austere (though richer than say a Dunn Howell Mtn). To my tastes, it still had enough stuffing to give it more time, but I could see why others might think otherwise.