TN: 1990 Barolo gathering at Henry K’s house with Baltimore winos

WINE TALK
#1

1990 BAROLO GATHERING AT HENRY K’S HOUSE WITH BALTIMORE WINOS - Henry’s house in Baltimore (4/21/2012)

Henry generously hosted us at his lovely house. We tasted eight baroli from the 90 vintage. The consensus on the top three wines was very strong (1) 1990 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia, Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato and Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata.
Whites

Flight 1

  • 1990 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    The nose is warm and deeply toned; Very ripe fruits, dry cherries, tar, mint, nutmeg, cedar and caramel. The palate displays very ripe fruits, medium concentration and bright acidity. (93 pts.)
  • 1990 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    More red fruits also warmer, fresher, cleaner and sweeter than the first wine. The complex nose displays bright ripe red fruits, cherry liquor, mint, raisin, licorice and earth. The palate displays sweet fruits, silky palate and fully integrated tannins. It is drinking beautifully at the moment. (95 pts.)
  • 1990 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Dark baked fruits, very ripe fruit expression, bitter chocolate and fruitcakes. It is too ripe for me. Nicely concentrated palate but a hint of bitterness that clips the finish. (89 pts.)

Flight 2

  • 1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    The nose is similar to the 3. Based fruits, blackberry, prune, tar, anise and bitter chocolate. Excellent concentration. There is a hint of oxidative note that really clips the finish. Kelly who brought the wine mentioned that this was purchased at auction and think that the wine is incorrect. I would have rated in the high 80s. NR (flawed)
  • 1990 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Soft, clean and bright nose; bright sweet red fruits, cedar, clove and leather. The palate displays sweet fruits, bright acidity and noticeable but nicely integrated tannins. (94 pts.)
  • 1990 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    The nose is not revealing much so I mention to Tom possible TCA. For me, it is really difficult to tell TCA taints in baroli due to the stem like nose. The nose is very muted and stays that way. There is no obvious TCA taint however. ??? NR (flawed)

Flight 3

  • 1990 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Expressive, fresh and vibrant red fruits, perfectly ripe strawberries, iron, light caramel. At perfect maturity and drinking magnificently. (96 pts.)
  • 1990 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Big scale wine, red fruits, dry cherries, mint and licorice. Excellent concentration and still noticeable tannins. (94 pts.)

Quintarelli Recioto

  • 1988 Giuseppe Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella
    This was purchased in Italy and hand carried back. VA dominated nose, grapy. The palate is a classic Quintarelli, very light yet intense. Henry K may be able to post if VA blew off. NR (flawed)

I don’t have enough knowledge in Barolo to discuss modernist vs traditionalist but the top three wines were very fresh and vibrant. It was a fun and educational evening.
Posted from CellarTracker

#2

Again, nice notes Kevin - I’m glad at least one of us was paying attention [wink.gif] .

#3

A few years ago, Mannie Berk and the Mascarellos did a dinner at Mozza that included every Monprivato ever made at that point. I thought the '90 was the best wine of the evening and consistent with your note.