1986 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (8/3/2013)
Library wine, popped and enjoyed over a 3 hour period. Soaked cork. Surprisingly dark purple color with some light edges. Nose woke up after 30 minutes to reveal intense smells of cassis, dark currant, tobacco, and a streak of green pepper which was intriguing rather than objectionable. Still quite fresh on the palate with buoyant, ripe red currant fruit loaded with grippy sweet flavor. Tannins got a bit dusty at first but then integrated later in the evening, with just enough accompanying structure to add gravitas. Acidity was moderate and lent freshness. Long finish with sweet red plum notes and a hint of tobacco and leather. Wonderful wine, very much alive at age 27. (94 pts.)
I have a couple bottles of the '02, which is certainly not a great vintage, but the notes all speak to the same issue - takes a while to come around. I’m waiting…hopefully not as long as it took for this '86!
I bought this wine recently from a retailer so it was not bought on release. Library wine is my term for a bottle that I did not purchase and store myself. May be the wrong term, not sure.
I looked at lots of notes on this wine from CT and noted critics. There is a lot of discussion about how austere it has shown even a few years ago. For whatever reason this bottle was ripe and enjoyable. Glad I caught it at a good stage.
Interesting use of “library”, like checking it out from the library rather than owning it at home. Most people think of a library wine as coming from the estate’s library of older wines that have never left the property.
I don’t own any any more, and don’t drink Bordeaux that often any more, but the 86s I’ve had in the last couple of years all seem to be finally coming out of their shells (haven’t had any first growths). they still seem to need and hour or two of air.
In my experience the '86 vintage has been (and still is) a difficult vintage – many still tannic, even slumbering. I like Beychevelle and Talbot now, but La Mission is not yet giving what it should, and many others need time. 1986 is similar to 1975 in that way, but many (most?) 75s dried out and dropped fruit before the tannic spine finally fell away, if it yet has. 1975 Pichon Lalande finally landed a few years ago and is sublime, and that particular '86 should surpass it. 1975 La Mission is great. I’m just not sure how much fruit in many '86 bordeaux will outlast the tannin, and I’ll likely never know since I own so few 86’s . . .
Good post Gary, personally enjoy the 86 vintage, but do tend to research them a little more closely than other vintages, whether its time to open or not. Great experiences with Lafite, Cheval Blanc, Margaux, Leoville Las Cases and Talbot. Not sure Mouton will ever come around, and have never been impressed with La Mission Haut Brion or Latour. 75 is an interesting comparison. Have also tasting wines from the vintage drying out, my sense is it will not happen as broadly in 86. Do not mind testing the theory by drinking many of them into the future! That said, could not agree more on the 75 La Mission, a beautiful wine!
I have had this wine ranging from corked to sublime but I like the structure in 1986 and not just in the Comtesse de Lalande. Many wines are just getting near balance now and when right they show very nicely. If modern Bordeaux is your experience you really have no context for these wines.
Well, dang, I would hope so, because this thing has shown sooo primary for sooo long. I opened one a few years ago and all I got was a wall of tannin, raw meat and nothing much else. Glad to hear it sounds like it’s approaching drinkability.
I get the sense this wine has caused no lack of consternation in its quarter century of youth. I was all set for disappointment, but got more lucky than smart.
John,
I have a lone bottle of the 86 Mouton. After reading this thread, perhaps I’ll wait for another decade or so.
I had this a few years back and it showed really well. I have a couple left… and I recently found out my brother has a magnum (saw it in his cellar years ago and asked last week about its health, just to be polite, of course). Must plan family event carefully.