TN: 1982 Red Bordeaux Tasting Dinner

My regular Albany area wine group met at the Fort Orange Club to taste 15 bottles of 1982 Bordeaux. The tasting was completely blind to all but one of us (who planned the tasting). We only knew that the wines were supposed to be 1982 red Bordeaux. There could have been ringers, but this time there weren’t. The tasting began at 7:30, ended around 10pm. I included decanting information where I had it. DD means double decanted.

I was able to bring home 3 bottles with a little left in each. Didn’t get to taste them until Sunday (3/1/09) with roast chicken.


Flight 1: Right Bank (plus La Lagune)
With Seared Sliced Tuna with carrot-ginger puree, orange tobiko butter croustade, piquant chili rouille, and wasabi aioli. I skipped the chili and wasabi until after tasting the wines.

Magdelaine
[DD at 6pm.] Complex nose of mulch, woods, and red fruit. Mellow and pleasant in the mouth. A touch tart. 90 Points.

Pavie
[Decanted for 24 hours.] Cedar, red fruit nose. Young, complex, tannic, delicious. Soft. Seems very right bank. Keith agrees. 93 points.
Open 3 days: Cinnamon, dried red berries. Some oxidation, but quite mellow and lovely. 94 points.

Figeac
[DD at 6:30 pm.] Stunning nose of cedar and complex cherries. Bob F says lots of Cab Franc. I think he’s right. This is drinking beautifully now. 96 points. My #3 WOTN.

La Lagune
[DD at 8am.] Musty, woodsy nose. Rich and tannic in the mouth with ripe red fruits and licorice. 92 points.

La Conseillante
Ethereal nose of slate, ripe fruits, and something exotic. Deliciously drinkable tonight! 95 points.

Latour a Pomerol
[DD at 6:30 pm.] Musty, woodsy nose. Dull in the mouth. Not bad, but doesn’t fit in this crowd. I wonder if this bottle was not well treated? 88 points.


Flight 2: St. Julien
With Duck Breast Au Poivre sliced with parsnip-apple rösti, and blackberry port au jus. Some complained this was too peppery but fortunately, mine was not. Delicious duck breast went beautifully with these wines.

Leoville-Poyferre
[DD at 6pm.] Cedar mulch nose. Tart, closed. Should have been decanted longer. NR

Ducru Beaucaillou
[DD at 8am.] Big cedar nose. Big and rich in the mouth. Loads of fruit. Young, tart, backward still! Would be very good now with a steak, but could certainly get better for 10 years or more. Very impressive showing! 93 – 95 points. Group’s #5 WOTN.

Gruaud Larose
[Decanted at noon.] Cedar and spice nose. Silky but still tannic. Rich and elegant. Classic St. Julien. 94 points. (Group WOTN)

Leoville-Las Cases
[Decanted at 2:30pm.] Ethereal nose. Super-long finish. So harmonious. I can’t believe this is this good. The WOTN so far. As good as the other wines have been, this one knocks me off my feet! (Or it would if I wasn’t sitting down.) A profound wine. 100 points. My hands-down WOTN. Group’s #2. [After I wrote this note and score and Bob confirmed that this flight was St. Julien, I guessed that this must be Leoville Las Cases.]


Flight 3: Pauillac
With Skewered Lamb Loin Medallions with ginger-mango-glazed Yukon gold-chèvre custards, and sun-dried fruited lamb glace.

Duhart-Milon-Rothschild
Red fruit and slate nose. Black fruits and tannin in the mouth. Nice length. 93 points.

Grand-Puy-Lacoste
[DD at 6pm.] Huge, tannic, backward. Way too young still! I wonder how long this was decanted? I’ve had much more forward bottles of this. 94 – 96 points.

Lynch Bages
[Decanted at 2:30pm.] Again very young. Maybe I’m getting palate fatigue. This is really good, but it’s hard to be believe it’s 27 years old. Maybe a ringer? 93 – 95 points.

Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
[Decanted for 24 hours.] Much more open nose. Very rich and silky in the mouth. Astonishing length. A wow wine! So sweet. 97 points. My #2 WOTN. Tied for group’s #3.
Open 3 days: Still has that stunning, ethereal quality I love in this wine.

Latour
[Decanted at 2:30pm.] Big cedar nose. Monster wine. Many great wines (like the one just above) build up. Somehow this one builds down. This wine is about depth. The layers go on and on, like steps into an underground fantasy. 96 points. Tied for group’s #3 WOTN.
Open 3 days: More open, showing more depth. A powerhouse of a wine!


Dessert

1983 Chateau de Suduiraut, Sauternes
Lovely, complex, mature Sauternes. It’s delicious, but I’ve reached my limit. 93 points.


Red Wines Ranked by Group Voting

  1. Gruaud Larose (17 points)
  2. Leoville-Las Cases (14)
    3(tie). Pichon Lalande (9)
    3(tie). Latour (9)
  3. Ducru Beaucaillou (7)
  4. La Lagune (5)
    7(tie). Magdelaine (3)
    7(tie). Latour a Pomerol (3)
    9(tie). Figeac (2)
    9(tie). La Conseillante (2)
  5. Lynch Bages (1)


    Menu
  • Seared Sliced Tuna with carrot-ginger puree, orange tobiko butter croustade, piquant chili rouille, and wasabi aioli.
  • Duck Breast Au Poivre sliced with parsnip-apple rösti, and blackberry port au jus.
  • Skewered Lamb Loin Medallions with ginger-mango-glazed Yukon gold-chèvre custards, and sun-dried fruited lamb glace.
  • Stilton and Gouda with grapes.
  • Chocolate Truffle with raspberries.

Wow, Ken, looks like a GREAT showing! I might have to seek out some '82 BDX…

Nice…very nice.

Wow, the Gruaud Larose beat out the PLL and Las Cases…shocking! Sounds like a great dinner Ken glad you got to drink those wines.

It’s too bad that you didn’t get to taste the 82 Mouton. To my palate, that was the best of the class of 82. PLL was second and Latour third.

Great tasting and interesting results.

Last I had the '82 Gruaud a few weeks ago (time before that was last May 2008), it still showed very young. This is ageing extremely gracefully. My group likes it a lot more than I, but, that said, it is an excellent wine indeed.

The '82 Figeac and Léoville las Cases are two others ageing exceptionally well in my opinion.

The most disappointing '82s I’ve had are Talbot and La Lagune.

At a dinner that included all '82 1855 first growths around 1½ years ago, my favorite was the Latour. Two others present favored the '82 Lafite Rothschild and one preferred the '82 Margaux (I couldn’t quite understand why in both cases). Nobody named the '82 Mouton as a favorite that night.

As regards the '82 Mouton and '82 Léoville las Cases, I, personally, prefer their 1986 vintages to their 1982.

Awesome, Ken! It is almost impossible for me to imagine a tasting where an '82 La Conseillante would come in 9th, but if such a tasting existed, it would be one like this.

Thanks for the great and helpful notes.

-Michael

Thanks for all the comments. As you can see from my scores, I did not agree with the group that the Gruaud was the WOTN. In fact, the guy sitting across from me when we were tasting the Gruaud and the Las Cases kept saying they were equally great, but I couldn’t see it. The Gruaud was terrific (and I’m glad I still have a few), but the Las Cases and the Pichon Lalande really had something special that took them to another level.

Jack, I have had the 82 Mouton before. It is very special.

Noel, I have also had the 82 Lafite and Margaux and could see why they might beat the Latour on any given night.

One thing I have never done is to have all the first growth 82s at the same tasting. I would really like to try that before I die. [cheers.gif]

Having them all side by side (preferably blind) is the best way of discovering how one perceives/ranks them. Considering the bottles your group opened during the dinner subject of your post, I’m sure arranging such a dinner would present no problem.

Best,

N