Notes from a wine dinner. It was time to drink some old wines, as they weren’t going to get any better, so I created a dinner around a couple of them.
We started out with something most people never drink today, Sherry. It was a Gonzales Byaz Apostoles Palo Cortado Muy Viejo, and I served it with warmed saffron scented cashews. It seemed to be well received, and the old Oloroso was not too far off dry, and had some very nice nutty elements.
Next up was a roasted tomato tart made with whole grape tomatoes and pine nuts and basil, with a base of chevre cheese and lemon rind.
H. Billiot Brut Reserve Champagne (nv) – still light and fresh with a yeasty nose a lot of character and a clean finish.
The next course was something I’d wanted to try out – a somewhat sweet apple and scallop dish that I wouldn’t normally make, so that I could try a couple of wines with it.
1999 Dom. Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray La Coulée d’Argent Vieilles Vigne Sec – oddly enough, I preferred this wine for drinking, but voted the other one as best match with the food. It showed some colour, a nose of apple and citrus, good acidity, and a decent length.
2001 Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese – I hadn’t wanted to go for anything with more residual sugar than a Spatlese, and this worked well, not because of the RS but because of the bright acidity. Typical good Riesling nose, some sweetness but perfectly balanced. Medium length.
The next course was what had prompted me to do the dinner, a couple of wines that were excellent in youth but really need drinking. I did a course that in retrospect was too timid. The sauce could have been much more assertive. It was a freshly made ravioli with herbs and local chanterelles mushrooms with a simple light cream rosemary sauce.
1979 Sassicaia – nice red fruit and cedar nose and on palate significant spice, with a long persistent finish. A slight VA blew off quickly and the wine not only settled in, but continued to open for an hour in the glass.
1979 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle – another killer nose with tar and meaty notes and spice, the tannins resolved and a rather interesting umami sort of beef tea flavour in the finish. Very good. Hard to choose between these.
The main course was a somewhat labour intensive stew of oxtail (stripping the meat was the labour part) with gremolata. I chose to mate tis with a couple of Barolos from modern producers from a middling vintage that is now quite ready to drink.
1993 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc – dark wine with a black cherry and plum nose, and on palate some anise and quite a bit of acidity when tasted alone, but it snapped into focus with the stew, which blunted the edges. Definitely a food wine (as are most Barolos).
1993 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina – also dark, with interesting slightly metallic and waxy notes in the nose, dominated by a meaty note with spice and more cherry. In the mouth the tannin was less obvious and it had goo length. I liked this one slightly better.
With cheeses (mostly blues):
1985 Grahams Port – I’d decanted this about 5 hours before and it was singing by the time we got to it, a riot of ripe fruit, cassis, spice, cocoa and blackberry in the nose, and on palate not as sweet as some Grahams, but beautifully balanced. I had the impression it may be just hitting its stride with a long future. Excellent finish. The only thing that will keep me from drinking up my small stash is having to try and find the other bottles in the cellar!
Unusually (for me) I also served a dessert - a cheese cream with toasted walnuts and wild flower honey with coffee.