TN: 1978 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Riserva

  • 1978 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (4/10/2011)
    After tasting so many Bordeauxs during the 10 EP, I had a major craving for an aged Barolo. As I drink more I seem to appreciate nuance over concentrated fruit. I am liking sappiness more and more. The wine shows sap, caramel, dry cherries, tar and minerality. Almost all tertiary in flavor there is very little fruit to speak of. Perhaps Bob would have called the wine past its prime, thin and insipid but this is a very enjoyable wine, especially with a simple grilled meat dish with rosemary. 93 pts (93 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

This is a wine made by Luigi Pira though not quite finished, before he died, and Chiara Boschis got her oaky hands on this winery. Not sure about the 1978, but older vintages said something like “trod by foot” in Piemontese on the label.

Wasserman had some 74 Barolo from E. Pira and Figli, and Luigi Pira was one of his favorite producers. Two bottles were very good, two were shot. I believe they were trod by foot.

I met Chiara Boschis at a Gambero Rosso tasting in NYC back in the day. Very cute. Tasted her “Cannubi”, nice if you like big oak in your Barolo. ~ :slight_smile:

I believe she is part of the Giacomo Borgogno family. The Borgogno wines have always been traditional to the best of my knowledge, at least up until the 1990 which was the last vintage tasted by me. They used to make a fantastic Barbera “Nebbiolata”, a Barbera repassed on the skins of the Barolo like a ripasso Val. Maybe they still make it? dc.

Ciao,

FWIW, I found this old TN from October 2004 I had written, regarding the 1974 E. Pira Barolo, the last of 4 bottles Wasserman had in his stash.

"1. 1974 E. Pira & Figli, Barolo. Luigi Pira ran this estate until his death in the mid 70’s. The Boschis family bought the vineyards - they also own Giacomo Borgogno. Today Chiara Boschis makes a renowned new wave “Cannubi” from the holdings. In his book “Italy’s Noble Red Wines” Wasserman says Luigi Pira was his favorite producer. He had 4 bottles of this wine in his cellar - this is the last of the 4 - the first bottle, drunk in 1997 soon after purchasing the Wasserman stash, was excellent. The next two were oxidized.

There is another separate producer today making Barolo called “Luigi Pira”; this is no relation as far as I know to E. Pira.

This wine was opened with cheese and prosciutto for lunch. Expectations were low as the last 2 bottles were totally oxidized. However, this bottle was in excellent condition. Decanted off a medium amount of sediment. The color is an impressive brick red with orange rim, still lively. The nose is fine with a touch of decaying leaves at first that disappeears, then roses, some tar, and spicy cherry/orange fruit, classic old school nose. On the palate still drinking well, perhaps past it’s peak but holding up well, fruit faded a little, slightly austere, with a grippy finish. Prosciutto and cheese really help it. We were more than pleased with the results of this last bottle. Grade: A-.

Dinner was osso buco, polenta and broccoli. To go with it we had the 1985 D’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture, normale. Decanted 2 hours before dinner. fine sediment. Very pretty garnet color in the center shading to orange with a yellow edge at rim. Mature, clearly, but healthy. On the nose, a very attractive, sweet berry fruit to it, some spiciness, rich and warm, like a Taurasi from Mastroberardino in many ways. On the palate it starts with a bitter finish at first taste after decanting, but this faded and by dinner with the osso buco had disappeared entirely, leaving a very fine grained, grippy, tannic finish. Lots of orange/red raspberry fruit left in it although this wine too has probably evolved past it’s peak. A lovely drink with the dinner. Grade: A-.

For dessert we had an astonishing 1914 Madeira, Bual, from Cossart Gordon, which believe it or not also came from Wasserman. Peter had bought about 50 bottles of non-Italian stuff from the stash, including this, some older ports and interesting Rhone wines, among other things. Grade: A+."


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