Side-by-side pours with the third and main course of the Castle Restaurant annual Christmas feast tonight in Leicester, Massachusetts.
Both exhibited vibrant red colors – no browning or orange at all. The Californian showed more red with a hint of purple with the Bordeaux a tad more muted red color. I would never guess from the color alone that either of these wines were nearly 35 years old.
The nose of the Cuvaison was intense floral/fruit gorgeousness. The Bordeaux was reticent in showing me any of its charms through the nose.
Oh! But then the taste! The Bordeaux was soft and feminine. Tasted as if I was laying down in a bed of roses – such unbelievable softness with a backbone of strength that comes from both pedigree and a place of indescribable beauty. Sublime. A finish that went on and on and would not, in fact, finish. Depth, structure – an elegant woman who could just stand tall and smile knowingly at those who would deign to gaze upon her. Floral notes all around. I just kept seeing roses in my glass and tasting them on my palate.
The Cuvaison flashed hot in the mouth – why yes, I can still taste your 14% alcohol, even after all of these years. You are how old, I asked my glass? No, ma’am, you cannot be that old – why you have sauciness and immaturity still about you that is quite fun and tasty. But, my dear, you are not the Bordeaux with its elegance and charm. But still, bright tart cherry flavor and a finish that was quite, hmmmm, well-rounded but still a bit rough – oh, not so much to call it a flaw – almost like a puppy that needed to be scolded and put in its place. Cute, fun, but a bit wild and undisciplined.
At our table, the preference was strongly towards the Bordeaux and I agree, although I would certainly drink either wine in a heartbeat.
I was so happy to have my almost 25 year old son dine with us and to have wines that predate him by many years – what an education his palate got tonight. He so preferred the Bordeaux and thought the Cuvaison “terrible”. I would not agree, but I was so pleased that he absolutely adored the Bordeaux.
The Castle Restaurant consistently puts out incredible wine dinners such as the one tonight. To experience such food and wine at the mere cost of $98/person is nothing short of amazing. Kudos to Jim Nicas and his staff yet again.