1976 Harbor Winery Zinfandel, Deaver Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley. I’ve only been fortunate enough to try a couple Harbor Winery bottles, but I’ve been wildly impressed with all of them, and this Deaver Vineyad zin is no exception. The wine pours a beautiful dark purple color with almost zero bricking. In the mouth the fruit and tannins are fully integrated but it’s still surprisingly youthful and very fresh, especially considering its a 47 year old Zin. At pnp smokey black fruits dominated, but with 20 minutes of air it opened up significantly with spicy, citrus tinged raspberries and a hint of autumn leaves on the long finish. Delicious and almost juicy thanks to the acidity. Exactly what I was hoping for and more!
Now here’s one from the dim-distant past. look at that anemic alcohol level… which is why it is still good. This was one of Charlie’s best Zins. The next two vintages were much higher. The '78 clocked in at over 16% and was a stuck fermentation w/ several degrees of residual sugar. He labeled it as “Country style”, sold it off for a song, and washed his hands of DeaverVnyd.
Did a visit once with KenDeaver. Tall/rangy/raw-boned/lanky kind of guy. Salt of the earth type like we find in Kansas. Highlight of the visit was visiting his pigs down in the gully along Shenandoah School Rd. He fed his 2’nd crop grapes to his pigs and the Deaver pork was regarded asthe best in the Valley.
Tom
That’s awesome Tom - Was hoping you might chime in with some history on this one! Yep, you’ve gotta love that ABV. It was in amazing shape at 47 years old, but i got the feeling that it was also great when it was young. Wish i had more but looks like this was the only bottle in CT, so a bit of a unicorn i guess!
Agree… Craig makes some darned good wines.
Charlie’s original Wnry had no signage and occupied the space behind Wingo & Sons Upholstery.
I remember the first time I met his daughter Margaret. I was there at the shop across from Executive Airport visiting w/ Darrell. Charlie’s HS daughter came in to pick up some wine for her Dad. Darrell introduced us and she extended her hand for a handshake. Darrell then added "He lives in LosAlamos and builds atomic bombs " (not quite accurate). Margaret pulled back her hand & recoiled in horror!!
When Darrell would invite me for dinner, Charlie was almost always on the guest list. I grew to be quite fond of Charlie. In his later declining yrs, he became very much a recluse and declined Darrell’s invites.
Tom
Brings back memories for sure. I used to sell Harbor wines on the East Coast… or, more accurately buy them with the intent to sell them, I sure did drink a lot of them.
I also enjoyed multiple dinners with Charles Myers, sometimes with Darrell Corti. I remember cooking lamb chops once for them, Darrell told me I was overcooking them, then had the grace to apologize when they came out as requested. Much as I loved Charlie’s Zins, I thought his Cabernets were his best wines. IIRC he used to get fruit from To Kalon.
Thanks for posting this wine Rich, I love those old Harbor wines. I haven’t had the '76 Zin but did have the ‘75 a couple years ago. Out behind the winery, Craig still has some of the old dairy tanks that Charles used as fermenters as well as a crusher/destemmer from Charles. I think those tanks and Charles’ press were used for the first couple Haarmeyer vintages.
Charlie was legendary as being a frugal pinch-penny. He used those old dairy tanks because he got them cheap. Saved buying expensive commercial fermenters.
Tom
