Last night our Bordeaux group (well, supposedly, but lately we’ve been doing as much other stuff) met at Ben’s in the Village for “California 1987 & older.” Ben and Wendy have a lovely space, and more importantly a lovely grace to their entertaining.
We had decided to do this blind, and Diane took on somm responsibilities. She coordinated choices via email, and then as everyone arrived they delivered their wines and she bagged and put into flights. While this was being arranged, we noshed on nuts and olives next to the kitchen. There was a Tarlant Champagne that I liked but didn’t love - I didn’t write down any details.
Before we sat, 2 whites made the rounds
2007 Sauzet “Champgains” Puligny-Montrachet 1er
I thought this classic and lovely, long with pear and hazelnut aromas, drinking well already. A-/B+
2002 Ch. Montelena Chardonnay
Oak sticks out a bit, but good acids and a crisp feel to it. Too oaky for some. B/B+
To table, where Ben had a nice plate of Spanish charcuterie (Serrano, lomo, salchichon, etc) , raw milk Manchego, quince paste.
Flight One
Wine 1A- Minty, fleshy, much more mature than its flightmates. I didn’t think it tired though, just drinking nicely. 1976 Jordan Alexander. B+
Wine 1B - from magnum. At first acids were a bit intense/spiky, but with a nice framework underneath. Dark fruits, leather, cedar. Young. I got producer with a lucky guess, but no clue re vintage. This was saved and decanted for end of evening, some liked less with air, I thought better as acids integrated. Nice wine! 1971 Mayacamas. B+
Wine 1 C- herby, full, still apparent tannins, black cherry, mocha. Full, complete, delicious. Paul spotted his own wine right away. Miles to go. 1976 Heitz “Martha’s Vineyard” A/A-
Flight Two
Wine 2A- a little tight (served fairly cold), as it warms some spice and tobacco. 1977 Ch. Montelena. B+
Wine 2B= corked. Too bad, I’ve always liked the ‘78 Mondavi. NR
Wine 2 C - Solid , medium bodied, ready to go, less herby than most wines tonight, leather over moderate fruit. 1975 Stag’s Leap “Lot 3” B+/B
Next course was homemade pappadelle with incredible duck sugo, yum.
Flight Three
Wine 3A - Fleshy, a bit low acid, but very nice in a plusher style. When someone suggested 3C could be a Silver Oak, I disagreed, but thought this could be the SO I brought(then I shut up, on rare occasions I get something right I like to not push luck**) 1982 Silver Oak Alexander** B+.
Wine 3B - caramel, brown sugar, this is cooked, baby! 1985 Spotteswood. NR
Wine 3C - Very minty, midbodied and elegant, there was some suggestion it could be an Aussie ringer. I liked this. Ringer yes, Aussie no. 1981 Ducru-Beaucaillou B+
Flight Four
Wine 4A - Tired, caramel and a bit of VA on nose, not sure if bottle or wine. My least favorite of wines that might possibly be on form. 1986 Hess Reserve C
Wine 4B- well, better than flightmate. Lots of bell pepper, some mint, quite short. 1987 Forman B-/C+
Luckily last flight went well with rare steak and broccolini
Flight Five
Wine 5A - Powerful but with a sense of finesse, lots of earth, solid fruits, nice complete package, I loved this. 1986 Phelps Eisele A-
Wine 5B- a light tarry note, dark fruit, I’m surprised how ready this is when unveiled. 1983 Dunn Howell Mountain B
Wine 5C - this was added at last minute, so had breathed less than others. Redder fruits, mint, cedar, balanced acids, I liked. 1978 Jordan Alexander A-/B+
I’m not a dessert guy, but table sure enjoyed Wendy’s apple tart. Great night with a very good lineup of classic CalCab,
WOTN voting (each person allots 6 pts, typically 3, 2, 1)
76 Heitz MV 22 votes
86 Phelps Eisele 15
71 Mayacamas 4
76 Jordan 3
78 Jordan 3
75 SL Lot 3 3
1982 Silver Oak 1
77 Montelena 1
Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.