Thursday at Grailey's - Schrader, Pavie, Baron, Bouchard

I’ve been getting slammed at work, and just finished a monster month. At about 1:45 I got an e-mail from another turnaround guy who wanted to know if I could meet at Grailey’s for an hour and a half for a glass or two of wine. I’ve not had a better or more timely proposition in ages. So, at about 4:45 I cut work early to go drink this:

2001 Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet “la Cabotte” - Laser like acidity with crisp green apple, lemon curd, and limestone. Well integrated oak, and a touch of baked apples provides a bit of richness. Frankly, the wine could use a bit more richness, but this acidic and mineral driven style makes for a great starter. Mouthwatering. Reminds me more of grand cru chablis than montrachet. La Cabotte was formerly a parcel of Montrachet, but was re-classified as Chevalier-Montrachet grand cru. 92

2007 Schrader Beckstoffer ToKalon - Explosive nose of black currant, blackberry, cedar, and spice. Really expressive, and certainly not in a “dumb phase.” Very nice richness, but not over done, and not overly glycerin-rich on the mouthfeel. Gripping tannins help the very, very long finish. Will age fairly well. Although the cedar notes dominate a bit right now, this wine is particularly well balanced. Hold off for another 4 or 5 years and it will just sing. 96
2003 Pavie - I readily admit that I would have blinded the wine as a beast cult cab from Napa, probably 2002. The nose was absolutely explosive. Intense blackberry and mint, with a reserved touch of oak and scorched earth. Just a massive bouquet. Rich black fruit palate with a touch more acidity than the Schrader, although just barely. Hint of espresso on the palate, although subtle. Fruit dominates. Very long finish with moderate tannins. It can probably last for another decade, but it’s not really bordeaux-like, so I’d treat it more like a Napa cab as far as drinking window goes. Certainly lacks typicity, but from a pure enjoyment standpoint, it was fantastic. 96

2000 Pichon Baron - Okay, this is actually bordeaux, unlike the Pavie. Black cherry and blackberry mixed with earth, a hint of oak, and sweet tobacco. Mineral edge on the finish and nice, grippy tannins. Has the stuffing to go decades, and is still a bit tight. Very good. 93
2005 Lionnet Cornas, Terre Brulees (I think) - Very clean raspberry and blackberry compote with a hint of pepper. Nice balance. Mid-weight wine with moderate tannins and a nice acidic cut that keeps things clean. Good, but outclassed. Should get a touch better with age as secondary notes develop. 90