We are recently back from a quick weekend trip to wine country for a friend’s wedding. The wedding was up in Lake County, but we stopped at Matthiason and Frog’s Leap on the way up on Friday and then drove out to Sebastopol on Saturday morning to taste with Jamie Kutch.
For the record, Lake County is gorgeous, as long as you survive the somewhat harrowing 30-minute climb up the mountains at the north end of Napa Valley. Hwy 29 goes down to two lanes and you’re driving up blind switchbacks the entire way, with locals who could do it blind divebombing you in both directions. If we had spent more time in Napa/Sonoma previously it would have been fun to explore the Lake County wineries a bit, but as it was we decided to focus on higher probabilities of success.
Two of the three stops we made were brand new to us (had never tasted the wines) and all three were terrific. And that is true both as to the actual wines and the overall experience. It helped that, in a rare turn of good weather luck we did not bring the Texas heat with us this time. Peak afternoon temps were in the high 70s or very low 80s, and there was barely a cloud in the sky the whole time; just glorious California weather with bells on.
We landed in Sacramento around 9:30, rented a car, and drove into Napa proper for an early lunch at Loveski’s Deli at the Oxbow market. The heirloom tomato bagel sandwich and the egg salad sandwich were both outstanding.
First up, Matthiason. Will post notes from Frog’s Leap and Kutch once I’ve had a chance to finish cleaning them up.
Matthiasson
Our first wine stop was at Matthiason, just about ten minutes north of Napa proper. We were brand new to the wines, but positive mentions of Matthiason come up frequently in discussions of “non gloop” Napa wines. Since we are not huge Napa Cab drinkers this tasting was attractive with the variety of whites and non-cab reds.
On arrival, our tasting host Abbie greeted us with glasses of the new NV Blanc de Blanc sparkler and ran through the winery’s background, including the founders’ passion for organic/regen farming and their strong belief in lower-alcohol, higher-acid wines for the table. Speaking our language! Abbie was a wonderful host, very knowledgeable and friendly. This was a stop by, present the wine, chat for a bit about the wine, and then leave you alone for a while to work on it style of tasting, which works fine for me, particularly for a more casual visit. We opted for the basic tasting, which Abbie supplemented with a couple off-piste selections based on our discussions.
The setting was just about perfect – outside under a shade, overlooking the gnarly 40-year-old cab vines of the Phoenix Vineyard. Here’s the view north up the valley from our table:
And the wine lineup:
The rumblings that this year’s harvest will likely be on the very early side seem to be well-founded given that some of the Cab bunches in the Phoenix Vineyard below the tasting patio were already undergoing veraison:
Matthiason made for a wonderful first stop given its convenient southerly location, the gorgeous setting, and the relaxed pacing. Great way to unwind from the stresses of travel.
The wines:
NV Blanc de Blanc
First disgorgement of this new wine. Traditional method sparkler, with a couple vintages of Linda Vista chard aged on the lees for 3.5 years.
Pastry dough, yellow apple, lemon, honeysuckle florals.
Mineral and mouthwatering acid spine, but supported by sunny California fruit. A bit weightier than most Champs but not heavy or ponderous. Very credible first effort!
2024 Linda Vista Chardonnay
Napa chardonnay in a neoclassical idiom. 12 months in ostensibly neutral French oak though I did perceive some minor oak impact.
Lemon, green apple, pear, a touch of oak influence on the nose.
On the palate you get good weight, somewhat round mouthfeel, but it is balanced by really nice acidity; there is a slightly silky texture to the wine. Lemon, fresh apple, and pear drop dominate the fruit profile and I perceived a tiny bit of oak spice in the background. Very nice chard and priced well for the quality. Unmistakably Californian but rendered in a bright and fresh style.
2023 Napa Valley White Wine
Apparently this was one of the original Matthiason wines and has been made with roughly similar grape mix in a roughly similar style since their inception in the early 2000s. The blend here was (possible I am getting this wrong) 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Ribolla Gialla, 24% Semillon, and 6% Tocai Friulano. So a cross between a Bordeaux Blanc and a Friuli white?
Floral and cheerful nose with green fruit and a bit of a bitter edge.
Brightly acidic with a mid weight texture, a small bit of grip, moderate finish. Flavors largely follow the nose with tangy green toned fruit, some florals, and quinine bitterness. Open and friendly, this would do well both as an aperitif and at the table.
2024 Schioppetino
Schioppetino is apparently a Friulian red, grown in small quantities in the Matthiassons’ backyard vineyard. Abbie introduced the wine by saying that it made her think of a cross between Syrah and pinot; that was a pretty good schematic.
Bright floral and spicy fruit nose with a bit of reductive (?) funk. Peppery crunchy and red toned.
Silky entry with lighter body, moderate acidity, very bright and peppery red fruit tones. Light tannin. Drinks pretty Pinotesque structurally, while the nose does recall syrahs on the ‘pretty’ side of the spectrum.
23 Shannon Ridge Vyd Lake County Carignan
Brightly red fruited on the nose with a raspberry inflection. There is an herbal edge. A bit of earthy funk.
The wine is silky, bright, moderate body, moderate plus acid, fairly light tannin. The herbal/lightly green line continues on the palate which freshens and sharpens the wine. Some chalky minerality.
23 Cabernet Franc
This is bottled in a low-shoulder Loire-style bottle as opposed to a Bordeaux-style bottle and Abbie confirmed that this was an intentional decision to telegraph the style. This is not your usual Napa Cab Franc.
On the nose zingy red fruit with a huge pinch of Virginia tobacco, plus some mild bell pepper.
Silky and refined with chalky tannin presentation, a spicy raspberry and cranberry tone, and more of the green freshening elements from the nose. Moderate acidity, but very very fresh. Well short of a Baudry or Raffault-level fierce franc but this is extremely pretty and IMO far more true to the variety than the ripe, heavily oaked iterations you often find in Napa.
2022 Napa Valley Red Wine
This is a slightly Right Bank-leaning Bordeaux blend, with Merlot as the historical backbone across vintages; like the white blend this is an original member of the Matthiason stable. The Merlot (and perhaps other grapes? I wasn’t clear) is mostly from the Cressida Vyd in Carneros, so a somewhat cooler climate than you usually see for Northern CA Bordeaux grapes.
Abbie was quick to note that, for Matthiason, the 2022s were very atypical for the vintage because they had gotten their entire harvest in before the September heat dome event that defines the popular narrative of the vintage. So for them, 2022 was a pretty normal or even slightly cool vintage with fairly even and pleasant weather throughout.
On the nose, red and black berry fruit, maybe some blackcurrant, tobacco, a bit of leather.
On the palate quite red fruited given the grape mix, but there are some darker berry and cassis tones as well. Brightly acidic and wide open, this is certainly drinkable now; there is plenty of tannin and acid to carry it for aging but the fruit is not bound up in them and the wine is quite inviting even at this early stage.
2022 Phoenix Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
[No bottle photo as this was brought out to us already in the glass.]
From the vines right in front of the tasting room. Many are 1982 planted, big gnarly fellas. You can see one on the left of this shot down the row, with juvenile vines on the right:
Wow! Beautiful nose that leads off with a heady perfume of jasmine and tobacco. There is a light peppery and lightly green herbal edge but well integrated. Powerful red and black fruit on the nose. Deep and concentrated. On the palate the wine shows old vine weight and concentration but the flavor profile remains resolutely fresh. Lightly extracted and transparent for a cab. Plenty of tannin but on the lower end of the extraction scale for the genre. Impressive. Really feels of the place.
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I really enjoyed the wines at Matthiason and was particularly impressed by the fact that they turned out not one but two Napa Bordeaux bottlings—the Red Wine and the Phoenix Cab—that I affirmatively enjoyed. (And, preview, I wound up liking both the Merlot and Cab quite a bit at Frog’s Leap – so my options for young Napa bdx bottlings have increased by leaps and bounds.)
Next up, Frog’s Leap!







































