Checked in a few white Burgundies that I had sampled in the past. One was the 2001 Fevre les Clos that was served at the San Francisco Chablis Jamboree back in 2004 or 2005. The sommelier at the time at pooh-poohed the wine a bit, suggesting perhaps accurately that it was a bit ordinary. I myself thought it was not quite reaching up to its early promise, but with the last bottle the wine really hit its stride, fully measuring up to the initial rave review from Tanzer. Very rich, palate-saturating/coating, with briny flavors of shellfish and citrus fading to almond flavors. The aromas emanating from this wine really had me thinking of a Jurassic age tidal pool, a feat considering that was about 180 million years ago. A brilliant showing.
Another wine that was served that evening (at the ChablisFest) was the 2002 Brocard Chablis les Clos. Many liked the wine, but here it was me (mostly) pooh-poohing it, making me wonder if it was going to come around. Well, I am happy to report that this one is coming around, even if it is not quite mature. The signature tidal pool aromas, with a distinct saline note on the palate, are beginning to emerge. Sharply etched, intense flavors of quinine and fainter shellfish in the mouth, with an impressive lingering finish. Excellent as well, and further testimony (if I needed it) to the wastefulness of drinking these wines too early.
Maybe some young wines can still show their stuff if you catch them before they shut down. The 2007 Bouchard Meursault Perrieres was one such wine tonight. Exceedingly rich, more so than I expected for this backward stony vineyard, with a suggestion of orchard rather than citrus fruit on the vibrating palate. Also unexpectedly impressive on the nose, with an almost Chablis like tidal pool element balanced by aromas of roasted apples and stony mineral dust. I am going to put up with the threat of a lot of premox to drink wines like these…