First, a disclaimer. I am extremely ignorant about Chenin Blanc. I’ve loved one Chenin in my life, a Chalone Estate sourced from old vines from the Pinnacles area of Monterey County. Not only am I ignorant about Chenin, I have no prior knowledge of these particular two wines. One was made by a local winemaker I respect (his first Chenin ever), and the other was a Kermit Lynch recommendation.
Served with sautéed local Monterey Bay Petrale Sole.
In one corner, a veteran, wearing the white label, in the bottle with the impressive European coat of arms, weighing in at 13% alcohol, from the Loire Region of France, we have 2012 Chateau d’ Epire Savennieres Grand Cru d’ Anjov. This wine was obtained from Kermit Lynch for $20.
In the other corner, a newcomer, wearing the tan label (no coat of arms, this is America), weighing in at 13.5% alcohol, from Monterey County, California, we have the 2012 Madeleine L’Arsouille Chenin Blanc. This is the first Chenin made by winemaker Damien Georis and was purchased from the winery for $20.
Visually, the wines are virtually indistinguishable – bright, light, very pretty straw yellow.
The Madeleine is noticeably more aromatically expressive with peachy/tropical fruit highlights. The Savennieres has sweeter, more honeyed aromas.
On the palate, the Loire leaves a pleasing, somewhat biting saline impression, with floral and mineral overtones. Rich mouth feel with good depth and length. Not quite as open on the palate as the Madeleine.
The Madeleine is slightly sweeter and richer on the palate than the Loire, with a very nice pear and apple center with citrus and saline/mineral highlights. Lively on the palate with a somewhat rounder flavor profile than the Savennieres. Edgy with a nice savory grip.
Both of these wines were not only tasty, but interesting, with complex flavor profiles.
I’ve come away from this tasting with three key lessons. 1) Chenin Blanc is a very worthy grape, making interesting, extremely price worthy wines. 2) Since Loire whites don’t carry the Asian demand and price penalty of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Rhone, it makes for a more challenging head to head matchup for California producers. 3) On this day, the California upstart showed very, very well.
