I actually don’t think this is a very hard problem to solve—for quality wines in Germany. Obviously, if something is not good, there’s really nothing that can be done.
But there are a few major issues. Firstly, too much wine stays in Germany and goes to retailers, and the U.S. market does not get enough. I am easily the single largest buyer of German Riesling in the U.S. I can say that quite comfortably and am happy to share values. I would actually assume that my spending is higher than most German wine importers in the U.S., so I have a unique point of view.
It’s silly that importers here don’t have enough stock—they should be able to slightly satiate the market. But quickly, and I probably know this better than anyone, the delta between being charged 2x ex-cellar from most German wine importers and what German retailers charge (and who often have way too much of the wine and need to offload it) is ridiculous. This is also true for the U.K. and other markets in Europe. One fix would be German producers moving more wine outside of Germany. Again, I’m speaking about mid-tier and top-tier producers. Nun is Nun, and it’s probably fine.
The second issue is what I just pointed out—charging 2x ex-cellar (or more, in many cases) is silly and provides very little value to the end consumer, where a couple of bucks can make a huge difference for restaurants. I will also say that logistics out of Germany are also absolutely brutal - either very expensive, not a referrer or inconsistent. It’s very expensive to move smaller qty of wine. If you had a small producer and that was the only wine that was ready, let’s say 1 pallet of wine - that might at $4 to get in to NY or CA just in shipping, which is pretty rough.
The other issue—and I will certainly get yelled at or something for this—but German producers need to get out of the habit of using only German wine importers in the U.S. That doesn’t exist for any other country, with the exception of maybe Greece or South Africa. Diversification is key for the market. The problem is purely a commercial one, and it’s why most German-only wine importers don’t have a chance when it comes to taking large inventory. Restaurants can only have so many German listings. Sure, Anajak can get away with it, but they’re buying 2/3/6-bottle quantities (for the most part), and that doesn’t really move the needle.
Up-and-coming producers struggle because (again—I’ll get in trouble for this by someone), but the case with Vom Boden is that no one can compete with Keller / Haart / Lauer / Emrich. And for restaurants, those are the four(ish) you want. Obviously, there are exceptions. But you’re limited in how much you can actually buy—whereas if you worked with an importer who has a large, diverse portfolio, and they only have 2–3 producers in Germany, they can take a big position because buyers will be focused. And if they want Mugneret-Gibourg or Coche, they’ll put the Riesling by-the-glass. You’ll have restaurants stocking 100% of your offerings as opposed to 10–30%.
The goal of an import company is to have 100% representation—or as close to that number as possible—and that’s impossible with German-only import companies.
Italy is a bit different because 80% of restaurants on the Westside of LA are Italian, and often Italian restaurants only care about Italian wine. There are maybe two German restaurants I can think of in all of LA—and none of them even have a wine list.
I think a lot of these issues are surprisingly not that hard to solve. Yes, the argument for justification is, “Oh, I represent Keller, so a young grower wants to work with my importer.” But the same can be said about Roumier, Overnoy, Philine, whatever.
It is cool there there is focus, but it’s not actually best for the producers. Just my two cents.