Temple of Eastern NC Gastronomy: B's Barbecue

Epicurean Exploits - Food and Recipes
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So, my plans are more solidified now. Therefore, I’m requesting/help suggestions for sites to see and places to eat/not miss in both directions, though I will have more time going north.

Basically, I am leaving Philadelphia solo early on a Friday in 3 weeks…my only goal is to be in Atlanta by noon Saturday (so I can take my son to the General Muir for lunch). Any route that makes sense south of Baltimore and any places to shoot for that make sense to stop to eat are welcome, including where (what area) to try to stay Friday night 3 hours or so away.

On the return trip (the following Tuesday morning after graduation), I will be driving north with the graduate (and maybe his older brother, too; my wife and others are flying home the day before). I have the following goals and constraints:

  1. We want to go from Atlanta to Charleston (never been) and will likely spend the day and night there, leaving Wednesday morning.
  2. We would like to visit Johnson County hams.
  3. We are staying with old friends of mine in Fredericksburg, VA Wednesday night…arriving after dinner is fine, as we will spend some time the next day with them.
  4. Any stops en route that might be interesting for food or sites or anything are fine; the more primitive or “down home” the better, as long as it isn’t too much of detour.

So, if Bob or anyone else can tell me which route to take…and maybe some food or other stops that they know…that would be superb. I am trying to get a little flavor for the “old” south…and so are our sons…and this is the last chance…maybe…as I don’t plan to spend time in Florida as I age. (I much prefer Maine, where I go regularly.)

Thanks in advance.

And, Bob…do you think that new Ponce Market is worth stopping with our gang for dinner? We are going to Mary Mac’s after graduation…at our son’s request. No haute cuisine or great wines on this trip, I’d say. (Also, son requested we go to the Cajun crawfish place on Buford Hwy…and it looks fine. Do you know it?)

Very exciting time for us, as our son seems to have gotten maximum out of his experience at Emory and in Atlanta, too. That wasn’t a given.

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And, > [1] Bob…do you think that new Ponce Market is worth stopping with our gang for dinner? > We are going to > [2]Mary Mac’s > after graduation…at our son’s request. No haute cuisine or great wines on this trip, I’d say. > [3] (Also, son requested we go to the Cajun crawfish place on Buford Hwy…and it looks fine. Do you know it?)

[1] Haven’t yet set foot in Ponce City Market, so can’t say–but I don’t like the idea of paying for expensive parking to shop or dine. Were I to go, the first place I would try is El Super Pan, a Latin sandwich place from one of my favorite chefs, Hector Santiago. Here’s the food lineup at PCM: http://www.poncecitymarket.com/type-directory/food/ I may be out in left field, but it looks like a glorified mall food court to me.

Krog Street Market, on the other hand, I really like–particularly food and drink at Ticonderoga Club; ditto at the Luminary; sandwiches and burgers at Fred’s Meat & Bread (same ownership as General Muir); and chocolate from Xocolatl. Have also heard good things about Richards’ Southern Fried (hot chicken, among other things), but can’t confirm. http://www.krogstreetmarket.com/

If you’re looking for a place in that general part of town, I also highly recommend One Eared Stag: http://oneearedstag.com/ Menu changes, but you can usually count on three of my favorites being available: celery salad (trust me on this one); pickled red shrimp; and rabbit rillettes. And a little-known off-the-menu treasure, the Meatstick (just “the Stick” to the cognoscenti), which I believe to be the best burger in town. And yes, Atlanta readers, I think it beats the burgers at H&F, General Muir, Bocado, Vortex, Grindhouse, Bones, etc., etc. YMMV, of course.

[2] Ah Mary Mac’s, one of the very few traditional southern dining rooms where you can also get a stiff, well-made cocktail. Nothing wrong with that.
I have a soft spot for Mary Mac’s: The last time I took my Dad out to eat, we had shad roe with bacon there. Enjoy.

[3] You must be talking about Crawfish Shack Seafood, a Cajun-Vietnamese wonder. Some of the best, freshest, cheapest seafood around. I especially favor the fried shrimp. Crawfish Shack Seafood - Atlanta, GA

I’ll give some thought to routes and stops along the way, and post more later.

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Miss Mary Mac’s, what a gem.

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Bob…thanks so much for your thoughts and response. That other market looks like the real deal…and maybe where to really eat after visiting Ponce to satisfy the friend here who recommended it.

I’ll look forward to your thoughts on the road trip…and hopefully to following them.

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Is this it?

http://www.countrycuredhams.com/mangalitsa-ham.php

And, any ideas or opinions on this?

http://www.costco.com/Johnston-County-Hams-Whole-Bone-in-Prosciutto-Style-Country-Ham.product.11480045.html

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We would like to visit Johnson County hams.

Johnston County Hams (retail shop and curing facilities) is in Smithfield NC (not to be confused with Smithfield VA, home of Smithfield Hams), two miles off I-95. That’s super easy from Charleston: take I-26 west from Charleston (about 50 miles) to I-95 north, and it’s pretty much a straight shot to Philly. Johnston County Hams now cures Mangalitsa hams, by the way, if you want to pony up the big bucks. I don’t think they do tours except for larger groups, but it’s worth asking.

FWIW, Smithfield NC is also home to the Ava Gardner Museum. You can’t make this stuff up. If you go please give me a report; I’ve never been.

Where else to stop along the way if you do return on I-95? Let’s start with eats:

  • If you want to try that SC low country specialty/abomination, BBQ with mustard sauce, go to Sweatman’s in Holly Hill SC. Not very far from Charleston.
  • See post #8, above, re: possible side trips to B’s Barbecue in Greenville NC and Wilber’s BBQ in Goldsboro NC.
  • Fuller’s Old Fashion BBQ in Lumberton NC is also worthy, and serves lots of Southern food other than BBQ–chitlins, ox tails, corn cakes, and chicken & dumplings, by way of example.
  • Like ginger ale? Then stop in Hamer SC at Blenheim Bottling Company and pick up a case of the very best. Select the red bottle cap for hot, gold cap for not-so-hot, or white cap for diet. Red’s the way to go, IMHO.

Any attractions worth stopping for (besides the Ava Gardner Museum)? There’s not much close to I-95, but I’ll throw out some ideas and can judge:

I’ll post about the Philly to Atlanta trip later.

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Because she was a Johnston County girl like my mom, 'nuff said :slight_smile:.

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Thanks, Bob…it all sounds great…and on the agenda, except for the ginger ale. Been trying to eschew all soda for several years now. Never was a big soda fan, luckily.

The mangalitsa stuff is what drew me to want to stop there in the first place. I called them when this thread started to ask what I had to do for a tour. They said…that’s not really possible, but I could taste at their visitor center. I asked if I could see the pigs, and they said the ride to Iowa was too much of a detour.

Ava Gardner is before my time, but she was beautiful. And, any woman who could get Orson Welles, Frank Sinatra, Mickey Rooney and Artie Shaw???..this is off the top of my head…(edited: [oops.gif] Welles was married to Rita Haworth.-aren’t they the same?)…must be worth a visit, and I will. (On our last trip toghether, in 2014, my son and I drove from NOLA to Atlanta and we stopped in Mobile for lunch, and then decided to explore a little…the museum there and the town’s history and charm…were a revelation, so…Ava is a go (plus the name is coming back; I know two kids with the name).

Been to Richmond…a pretty intense visit…and it was all you say.

Keep the thoughts rolling. If I’m armed with specifics like these…I’ll get my way over those boys’ cluelessness.

29

Okay, Philadelphia to Atlanta, here goes:

Option 1 - The Scenic Route I-95 S to Washington; pick up the Capital Beltway, I-495 W toward Silver Spring; then I-66 W toward Manassas; to I-81 S, which takes you 200+ miles through the Shenandoah Valley; then I-77 S to Charlotte, where you pick up I-85 for a straight shot into Atlanta.

There are two reasons you might choose this route: (1) the Shenandoah Valley is pleasant and scenic compared to most Interstate drives; and/or (2) you have some time to take advantage of some of the natural and historic attractions along the way. Examples:

No time to stop along the way, and scenery not that important? Get tired of driving on the Interstate? Then consider…

Option 2 - The Straight Line Start out like Option 1, but exit I-66 onto US 29 S toward Gainesville/Warrenton VA; follow US 29 S until you pick up I-85 S near Greensboro NC; follow I-85 S to Atlanta. Despite the long stretch away from the wide slab, this is probably the quickest route–though not by much.

Option 3 - I-95 Redux Take I-95 S all the way to Florence SC, then I-20 W to Atlanta. Simple. But since you’re taking the I-95 route home after visiting Charleston, why see it twice? Unless, of course, you have the clout to get a tee time at Augusta National–I-20 will take you within a few miles.

For my money, Option 1 is the ticket–whether or not you have time to make stops along the way.

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Bob, the Shenadoah Valley route sounds very appealing and almost a no-brainer for me. When I was a kid, we visited Luray and it is still unforgettable.

I’d love to stay off 95, too…

thanks again

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TRIP REPORT

GREAT ADVICE, BOB…Thanks so much.

Route: I took the Shenandoah route you suggested all the way from DC to Charlotte and then onto Atlanta. It was pouring last Friday from Philadelphia until about a half and hour onto I-81 and then the sun came out. A glorious setting for an interstate, passing many colleges and their towns: James Madison, Virginia Tech, Washington and Lee.

For lunch Friday I Yelped a town and went to the best rated BBQ place. They told me there they were closed as they were “serving” at the local Lowe’s and directed me there. When I got there, I was told it was a “contractor’s” luncheon and not for the public, but, when I went to the food, they generously gave me a sample of their “Southern Hospitality”: excellent burgers, beans and slaw, though they had run out of pork. And, it was free.

Since I was a kid and my parents took us to Luray Caverns, I’ve longed wanted to see the Natural Bridge in VA. Well, unbeknownst to me, I-81 runs right past it, and I was able to stop and complete my quest of 55+ years. What a marvel of nature!! And, that it was unexpected made my day in spades.

Onto Charlotte and a barbecue place from Yelp that has been open since 1963 (Lee Harvey Oswald could have eaten there.) It is clear why it has survived, despite the very mustard-colored slaw. Best “Barbeque” I had on the trip, ie, pulled pork. http://www.yelp.com/biz/bill-spoons-barbecue-charlotte-2

Saturday: Into Atlanta and a nice lunch with graduating son at the General Muir. Very nice homage to the now-anachronistic NY Jewish deli, though not a doppelganger for a real one. My son thought it the best meal of the trip….until the ride north. That night, my wife and sister having flown down, we went to “the Crawfish Shack Seafood, a Cajun-Vietnamese wonder” where we all had a very satisfying meal highlighted by fresh, steamed crawfish and good gumbo.

Sunday in Atlanta: We took and electric car tour ,http://www.atlcruzers.com/ which is really worth the effort, as the city is a little disorienting to visitors like us (and it wasn’t our first time). Then to the Krog Market, but we decided on a nearby pizza place, intending to visit the Krog for dinner. The pizza place, O4W (Old 4th Ward) pizza is an excellent version of NY/NJ pizza (by guys from my home area of central NJ/Springsteen country), with good salads, too. Really excellent for any city, IMO. http://www.yelp.com/biz/o4w-pizza-atlanta

Unfortunately, I both had misread the hours on Sunday evening for the Krog, as well as assumed that the “hot chicken” place had opened (it hasn’t yet), so we had to give up on that dinner spot. We went to some forgettable Mexican place in Decateur instead. We did get to the Ponce market that afternoon, when our older son flew in. As Bob suspected, it was a giant food court with nice restaurants, but little character per se. I felt it could have been almost anywhere, even its sister Chelsea Market in NY, owned by the same folks. Didn’t visit the slew of stores.

Monday was graduation at Emory (made nicer by nice weather and our son’s puzzling Phi Beta Kappa pin—not sure how he did so well, frankly). Lunch at Mary Mac’s. I’d have to say it was the disappointing meal of the trip. Good ideas, tons of food and character and people. But, overall, nothing really memorable on the plates, except the green tomatoes and the decent fried chicken. But, very glad to have gone there…at the graduate’s suggestion. (We had planned to go there in 2012, with friends, when we rushed to catch a flight home to arrive before Hurricane Sandy cancelled them all.) Older son and I did visit the Varsity near the Olympic park later that night, near our hotel, while the grad was with his friends. Having had the Varsity at the airport and now this one, I think the place, especially with its fresh cut fries and good onion rings and ok burgers (though skimpy , which is usually fine with me) is in the league of Five Guys in that regard. We didn’t like the hotdogs, with any combo of toppings.

Tuesday, we drove to Charleston. Frankly, I hadn’t realized it was almost not at all north, so didn’t advance our journey home. Had a really nice and unexpectedly good lunch at a country market in Lexington. http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-farmers-shed-restaurant-lexington?osq=lunch Then, didn’t really have enough time to really explore Charleston, but did our best. And, had some wonderful steamed oysters on a place Andrew Zimmern highly recommended a few miles out of town. http://www.yelp.com/biz/bowens-island-charleston

Wednesday we stopped to buy peaches, strawberries and grits off of 95, and then to a Q place in Lumberton, NC, which was pretty good Q (though the brisket was lacking and they were out of ribs.) The owner hovered over us , seemingly surprised that, as northerners, we weren’t Trump people. He had his reasons, but…I couldn’t really understand his accent, luckily. Then onto Smithfield and the Johnston County Ham store. Disappointingly and surprisingly, it was small, and there was no opportunity to taste anything before buying. So, I had to buy blind. (The mangalista ham I opened yesterday was REALLY good, though). Then I spent a half hour in the Ava Gardner museum while my sons went elsewhere. Really glad for the heads up: she was interesting and perhaps the most beautiful movie star ever. No wonder Frank Sinatra fell so hard for her. A new perspective on that era of Hollywood and of Ava herself. Then onto Fredricksburg, where a high school classmate and his wife have retired from NY city and a nice visit and pancakes with country ham slices the next morning before heading home.

A good bonding and eating experience for sure, though the most bonding was between the two sons, which is fine with me as they are 6 ½ years apart. (And, every time I asked, Mr. B’s was, unfortunately, 50 miles out of the way, and we were always in a hurry to get to Fredericksburg by nighttime.)

Thanks, Bob. Suggestions and opinions well worth following…Thanks for providing them.

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A low country barbecue thread… You’re killing me Bob!

With regards to Pepsi, I believe in the Piedmont of NC (where I’m originally from) it was roughly half and half in terms of the Pepsi/Coke divide. Historically Pepsi’s advertising slogan was “Taste the pride of the Carolinas”. Remember these?

And wasn’t Hardee’s originally headquartered in Rocky Mount? Also, nice use of Co-Cola. My father uses that term for any soft drink regardless of make or flavor.

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Andrew,

Afraid I don’t remember “Pride of the Carolinas.” But then, there never was a Pepsi in my house while I was growing up. What I do remember is this Pepsi jingle, which played all the time on radio and television:

Pepsi-Cola hits the spot,
12 full ounces, that’s a lot,
Twice as much for a nickel too,
Pepsi-Cola is the Drink for you!

Listen here: Pepsi - Hit The Spot - YouTube

That, of course, is when all soft drinks sold for a nickel. Co-Cola was the first to go up, first to six cents, then to seven, and in short order all the way to a dime. Pepsi and everyone else followed, of course, but Pepsi kept on using the “twice as much” for the same price refrain.

We Co-Cola purists substituted these lyrics:

Pepsi-Cola hits the spot,
Man that made it should be shot.
Smells like whiskey, tastes like wine.
Oh my gosh! It’s turpentine.

And wasn’t Hardee’s originally headquartered in Rocky Mount?

Nope, that came just a little bit later. Hardee's - Wikipedia

Wilbur Hardee may have been reckless enough to lose controlling interest in Hardee’s in a poker game, but was smart enough when sold the balance of his interest to negotiate (or so I have been told) a royalty of one-half cent per burger sold for 20 years. That’s a helluva heap of pennies.

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Barbecue is not food, it’s religion.
That’s why there are so many disagreements over what constitutes “real barbecue.”

I have no doubt about “real barbecue.”
I was raised up in the Church of the Whole Hog, Chopped, Vinegar Sauce, No-Tomato-Within-100-Miles.
I keep the faith, but it’s a faith in danger of dying out.

B’s is the High Temple of authentic barbecue.
I last worshiped at B’s in October 2016.
A dead battery and other mishaps delayed us, and when we arrived at 1:55 pm, the pork was gone.
But the chicken, slaw, corn sticks, and sauce were manna.

I asked one of the three sisters who own B’s—I think it was Donna McLawhorn—about the sauce:
“If you say it’s a State secret, I will understand.
But is there anything in the sauce besides apple cider vinegar, red pepper flakes, and salt?”

She squinted at me suspiciously, then grinned like the Cheshire Cat and said, “Yes. There is.”

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Abomination??? This is my favorite barbeque sauce. http://www.johnnyharrisbbq.com/product/original-3-pk/ Never had anything in NC to compare and I import it to Maryland (even though the restaurant is now gone, we can still order the barbeque sauce).

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Geez, not a place that locals go to under any circumstance. Let me know next time you are around CLT. For the record the Pride of the Carolina’s is Sundrop/Cheerwine.