The last few days I’ve been drinking an old school, large scale producer 2016 Olarra ‘Classico’ Gran Reserva [Rioja] which is a good example of the region, and it’s level, but runs out of steam after 48 hours open. It’s medium bodied, 13.5% abv, a touch rusty red in color with a nose of balsalmic, bay leaves, pipe smoke. The fruit is on the brighter red berry side, with a touch of acidic lift, and tannins are mostly resolved. This is a mix of older plots from 4 Rioja Alta villages, composed of (80%) tempranillo of course, but also mazuelo, graciano, and garnacha. This is a big producer - output comparable to CVNE or MdRiscal - with multiple facilities, and many brands/labels/bottlings that seems to be making a fresh push into the US. In recent years I’ve picked up a few different names, all from different merchants, although the experiences have been hit or miss. I do like this 2016, and it’s what I expect flavor wise. It’s closed with a natural cork, and perfectly sound, without glaring unpleasant oak attributes. It drinks best on day 1 and 2, fading fast by the third, and whether that is an unfair standard or not, it’s the main reason why I notched down to a B+ after mulling it over. I don’t think it will keep the way more intense Rioja might - this reminds me of Montecillo’s GR.
Even if “small producers/estate wines” is a WB vinuous piety to proclaim, this industrial house with who knows who many growers feeding the vats, has something to offer too, and I suggest tasting them to see what the spectrum is like.