Tasting Twelve 1er Cru 1990 Gevrey-Chambertins

This afternoon we went to a Casa del Vino tasting of 1er Cru 1990 Gevrey-Chambertins at Casa Viejo in Corrales. We started with a very nice 1990 ‘Collections Rare’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs ‘Gentilhomme’ - full mousse, rich flavors of clean crisp Blanc de Blancs; no toast or yeast; and a long, rich clean finish. A very nice opener with a couple small, tasty housemade bacon and sharp cheddar gougeres. Then we moved on to the Gevreys. First flight was Drouhin-Laroze Clos Prieur - light red fruit; Harmand-Geoffroy Clos Prieur - rich complex red & black fruit, balanced mid-palate, and a long complex finish, the wine of the flight; Faiveley Combe aux Moines - rich red & dark fruit, good mid-palate, medium long fruity finish; almost as good as the the previous. This flight was accompanied by a tasty roasted wild hedgehog mushrooms, toasted pepitas, & Garroxta cheese mixture that matched well with the Burgundies.

Second flight was all Cazetiers - Michel Magnien - elegant rich fruit, balanced mid-palate, and a long finish, very nice; Philippe Naddef -rich red and dark fruits, good mid-palate, and a medium long fruity finish; Armand Rousseau - the wine of the tasting; bright, spicy red & black fruits; rich spicy mid-palate; and a long, complex spicy fruit finish. These were wonderful with a small serving of black truffle risotto. Third flight was all Fonteny - Bruno Clair - rich fruit, rich, balanced mid-palate, and a long rich fruit finish; Sérafin Père et Fils- rustic darker fruit; good mid-palate, with a medium long fruity finish; Joseph Roty - sadly corked, I really wanted to try it. These were accompanied by piñon smoked duck breast slices with sautéed Shiitake mushrooms and a Port / Black Currant Jam. This also was very good with the drinkable Burgundies.

Last flight was all Combottes - Georges Lignier - rich, complex red & black fruit, pleasant mid-palate, and a long finish; Jos. Drouhin - simple minerally red & black fruit, balanced mid-palate, and a medium long fruit finish; Truchot-Martin - slightly funky initially, developing into rich, complex spicy fruit flavors & nose; rich, spicy mid-palate; and a long complex finish, this was the only flight that initially showed the hardness that I associate with the 1990 vintage. The hardness went away with time and the final course, a seared filet mignon with mushroom froth and a cauliflower purée