Siglo Crianza 1970
Tawny/brick, with no red or purple to speak of. Fairly pale, with a watery rim.
Nose: Fully oxidative, closer to a Pedro Ximénez or Madeira than a Rioja. No fruit apart from prunes and a hint of orange peel.
Palate: Little tannin and bright acidity, with alcohol barely noticeable. Dried fruit and a touch of vanilla. Finish is relatively long. More body than expected.
Remarkably intact for a 55-year-old budget crianza that had suffered unknowable abuse in a hot cabinet at my grandparent’s (seriously - check out the terrible full!).
Condado de Haza Crianza 2009
Much more structured than the Siglo, and still relatively youthful at around 16 years.
Nose: Plenty of tertiary notes to accompany dark ripe fruits: cellar funk, tobacco and cedar.
Palate: Dried dark fruit with a touch of oxidation. In the finish you can tell that it is a crianza - where a reserva would still be fully sound here, this has a light sour streak.
Finca de los Locos 2024
Intense, brilliant purple, very opaque.
Nose: Dark cherry and date. A touch of dairy or yogurt from malolactic fermentation, with plenty of red and dark fruit.
Palate: Present but soft tannins, with enough acidity for freshness. Alcohol (about 14%) is well hidden. Very long finish, around 35 seconds. Lots of cherry, from red to dark and from very ripe to less ripe, always fresh. Fairly spicy, with a hint of vanilla from the oak.
Surprising single-vineyard modern Rioja from a 1981 plot in Baños de Ebro. It’s mostly Tempranillo with Graciano and a little Viura, and is organically farmed.
Artuke 2025
More red-fruited than its bigger single-vineyard sibling, Finca de los Locos. The absence of oak is apparent, with great fruit purity throughout. A bit of lactic character on the palate, otherwise very red-fruited and crunchy. Excellent for what it is: uncomplicated and tasty.